Boulder Dash 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Howard Doyle, Herb Laeger, 2/77. |
| Submitted By: | Randy on Jan 1, 2003 |
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This is me on the top crack section of Boulder Das...
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Description As you walk into Echo Cove from the parking lot, this climb lies on the steep dark face on your right. It is easily recognized by the large, brown, right-facing dihedral high on the rock.
The original (and best protected) line starts just left of Big Moe, then takes cracks/ramp up and left (5.7) to the base of the dihedral. The dihedral is fun laybacking and stemming (5.9) with good pro.
More direct (and difficult; 5.10 to 5.11) starts can be done to the left, though they are not well protected.
Protection Small to 2.5 inch cams. The various direct starts do not have good pro, though some exists. The upper dihedral has excellent pro. Larger cams usefull for belay or to top-rope.
BETA PHOTO: Boulder Dash (let) to Out To Lunge (right). Copyri...
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BETA PHOTO: Pick a start to Boulder Dash (5.9) ©
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butt-shot!
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soft focus...oh yeah
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Finishing up the top portion of Boulder Dash on TR...
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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 15, 2004
| Fun climb. It's leadable but the top has only a single in line crack unless you have some long webbing or runners. If you do, there is also a large deep crack about 15 feet back from the face that will take huge gear.
The bottom portion of the climb is juggy with some reasonable places for small to midrange (1 1/2") gear and the top crack portion is excellent finger to thin hands. |
By Locker
From: Westminster, CO
Jun 19, 2004
| Good short climb. Easy lead in my book........... |
By jacob
Aug 11, 2004
rating: 5.9
| Its not a bad route, The best part of the climb is up at the top, where it becomes a lieback, or can up the crack a little ways and then can move onto the face..
Best if top roped, There is a single crack on the top that is used for the anchors, larger nuts,small tricams, and small to mid sized hexs work great... |
By Richard Adler
From: Bend, Oregon
Aug 12, 2004
| Well, will wonders never cease. I actually agree with Locker. This is a wonderful lead. With several different starts!! The upper lieback section (where the money moves are) eats gear! And interesting mildly run out moves between the horizontals as well! |
By Ryan Avery
Jan 23, 2005
| I led this one from the 5.10 start and I thought the moves between the horizontals weren't that bad in the 5.8 range. Use some aliens to protect the horizontals and run it out a bit. |
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