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Boulder Canyon

Select Area...
Above Tower of Babel 
Across From Cenotaph 
Across From Mind Shaft Cliff Crag 
Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag 
Ament's Rock 
Angel of Death (formerly known as The Beer Can), The 
Animal World 
Arena (aka Contender Wall), The 
Armin's Crag 
Avalon 
Bell Buttress Massif 
Between Crackland and Wizard Rock 
BH Block 
Bihedral Area, The 
Bitty Buttress 
Black Widow Slab 
Blob Rock Area 
Boulder Canyon Boulder 
Boulder Falls East 
Boulder Slips 
Boulderado, The 
Bowling Alley, The 
Brick Wall, The 
Broken Rock 
Bummers Rock 
Canyon Block 
Castle Rock 
Catacombs, The 
Cenotaph Crag 
Cenotaph Spire 
Cob Rock 
Coney Island 
Cornerstone, The 
Couch Fire Crag 
Dome, The 
Eagle Rock 
East Of Eden 
Easter Rock 
Electra Glide 
Elephant Buttresses 
Fin Land 
Frisky Cliff 
Frogman Pinnacle 
Garden Party Wall 
Goofy Spire 
Happy Hour Crag 
Hideout, The 
High Energy Crag 
Higher Energy Crag 
Hillbilly Rocks 
Interloper Wall 
Island Rock 
Law of Physics Crag 
Lion's Den 
Little Crag 
Loft, The 
Long Walk Rock 
Lookout, The 
Lost Flatiron 
Lost Rock 
Lower Boulder Falls 
Lower Dream Canyon 
Mental Rock 
Mind Shaft Cliff 
Mindless Cliff 
Mine Hole Crag 
Mountain Rose 
Myth Rock 
Nip and Tuck 
Nursing Home 
One Shoe Makes It Murder 
Overlook, The 
Pop Rock 
Practice Rock 
Red Lyin' Slab 
Retirement Rock 
Road Rock 
Rock Island I 
Rock Island II 
Security Risk Massif 
Sherwood Forest 
Short Cliff w/ Three Cracks 
Sleeping Beauty 
Solar Dome (aka LightHouse), The 
Solaris 
Spasmodic Rock 
Sport Park, The 
Stepping Stones 
Sugar Crack Buttress 
Sugarloaf Block 
Teflon Wall, The 
Three Buffoons 
Tonnere Tower 
Tortoise Boulder 
Tower of Babel 
Trespass Rock 
Trout Rock 
Truth or Consequences Crag aka Inca Stone 
Tungsten Mine Shaft 
Turtle Rock: A Crag for Kids 
Unknown Crag (across from Lost Rock) 
Vampire Rock 
Wall of Voodoo, The 
Watermark, The 
Witches' Tower 
Wizard Rock 
Zoo, The 

Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Caribou Flats
A fast and technical downhill from Caribou to Eldora. Near Nederland, CO
School Bus
The classic climbing/descending route in West Magnolia. Near Nederland, CO
Switzerland Trail
Easy riding through fantastic scenery and interesting history. Near Ward, CO
West Magnolia Tour
A perimeter tour of the maze that is the West Magnolia trail system. Near Nederland, CO
Re-Root
One of the more fun trails in West Mag with several optional big technical moves. Near Nederland, CO
Rollins Pass (aka Corona Pass)
The old railroad grade over Rollins pass from Rollinsville to Winter Park. Near Nederland, CO
From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Boulder Canyon 


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Location: 40.0024, -105.4102 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
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Photo of east Boulder Canyon from the air.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Minutes from downtown Boulder, a wide variety of climbing types and beautiful scenery make Boulder Canyon a favorite for many locals to climb. The rock type is granite, smooth in places but for the most part highly textured. Easy to challenging sport climbs litter the canyon, and new development is still going on. Also, there are a number of moderate and classic trad lines, from the Elephant Buttresses up to Castle Rock and beyond.

Note, for organizational purposes, Upper Dream Canyon is listed separate from Boulder Canyon, despite being a side branch of Boulder Canyon.

The crags on the south side of the canyon receive little sun in the winter months, and often are quite chilly then. They are great for shady climbing in hotter weather, however. Most crags on the northern side of the canyon are climbable in the winter months, and quite hot to climb in the summer sun. Approach time for most climbs is in the 5-15 minute range, if not less.


Ice Climbing 

There are a couple of areas in BC that form ice during the winter thanks to a leaky aqueduct. These flows forms just West of Castle Rock on the South side of the creek. Mainly shorter, easier lines, but up WI6 (in thin conditions) can be found.


Mileages / Crags 

Here is a update-able list of approximate mileages (from the bottom) with associated crags:

Mile 0.4 South: Goofy Spire | Slabs
Mile 0.5 North: Elephant Buttresses | The Dome | Frogman Pinnacle | Rock Island I | Ament's Rock | Three Buffoons
Mile 0.6 North: Rock Island II
Mile 1.0 North: Little Crag
Mile 1.1 South: The Teflon Wall
Mile 3.9 North: Sugar Crack Buttress | (up Sugarloaf Road) Bummers Rock
Mile 4.2 South: Island Rock
Mile 4.6 North: The Brick Wall | Spasmodic Rock
Mile 4.8 South: Mental Rock
Mile 4.8 North: Turtle Rock: A Crag for Kids | Milk Dud aka Canyon Block | Long Walk Rock
Mile 6.2 South: Eagle Rock
Mile 6.3 North: The Arena (aka Contender Wall)
Mile 6.6 South: Cob Rock | Lost Flatiron | unknown crag
Mile 6.6 North: One Shoe Makes It Murder | Stoner Slab | The Wall of Voodoo | Bitty Buttress
Mile 6.7 North: Short Cliff w/ Three Cracks | Blob Rock Area
Mile 6.8 North: Happy Hour Crag | Security Risk Massif | Poison Ivy Dome | The Solar Dome (aka LightHouse)
Mile 7.0 North: The Riviera | The Bihedral Area
Mile 7.0 South: Lost Flatiron | unknown crag | Witches' Tower | Sherwood Forest | Garden Party Wall | Across from The Bihedral aka Cascade Crag | Scruffy Crag
Mile 7.3 North: Hillbilly Rocks | Truth or Consequences Crag aka Inca Stone
Mile 7.3 South: Boulder Canyon Boulder
Mile 8.0 North: Lower Dream Canyon | Lower Boulder Falls | Boulder Falls East | Boulder Slips | Lion's Den | Mindless Cliff | Mind Shaft Cliff | Valor | Law of Physics
Mile 8.0 South: Tonnere Tower | Tower of Babel | Above Tower of Babel | Across From Mind Shaft Cliff
Mile 8.1 North: The Bowling Alley | The Lookout | The Hideout | Tungsten Mine Shaft | Practice Rock | The Cornerstone | Electra Glide | Road Rock
Mile 8.1 South: Sentinel Slab | Aquarium Wall | Bell Buttress Massif | Solaris | Japanese Garden
Mile 8.2 North: Myth Rock
Mile 8.2 South: Wizard Rock | Avalon | The Watermark
Mile 8.7 North: The Zoo | Animal World | The Boulderado | Mine Hole Crag | Armin's Crag
Mile 8.7 South: Vampire Rock | The Loft | Black Widow Slab | Trout Rock | Sleeping Beauty | The Angel of Death (formerly known as The Beer Can) | The Catacombs | Unknown Crag
Mile 8.8 North: Unknown Crag
Mile 8.8 South: Lost Rock
Mile 8.9 North: Easter Rock
Mile 9.1 South: High Energy Crag | Higher Energy Crag
Mile 9.2 South: Interloper Wall
Mile 9.2 North: Coney Island
Mile 10.5 North: Nip and Tuck | Stepping Stones | El Barrio
Mile 10.8 North: Nursing Home
Mile 10.8 South: Retirement Rock
Mile 11.0 North: Couch Fire Crag
Mile 12.0 South: Broken Rock | The Overlook | Castle Rock | Mountain Rose | Frisky Cliff
Mile 12.3 North: Cenotaph Crag
Mile 12.3 South: Across From Cenotaph
Mile 12.5 South: The Sport Park


Getting There 

From the low lands, go to Boulder. Canyon Street (aka CO Hwy 119) runs east to west. Get on Canyon, drive west. Mileage distances for the crags are measured from the bridge that you cross on the right turn as you just get into the canyon. You can also walk/ride on a footpath that follows Boulder Creek to get to some of the rocks.

From the high lands, go to Nederland. Drive downhill on CO Hwy 119.


Access Issues 

Note, the lands along this canyon are a patchwork belonging to multiple owners. Some allow bolting, some do not. Be aware of the owner of the land and their regulations before altering the landscape here.

The US Forest Service implemented existing seasonal closure orders for Eagle Rock, Blob Rock/East Blob/Bitty Buttress and Security Risk (including both Upper and Lower Security Risk) climbing areas.

These closures protect a long-established golden eagle territory, including valuable alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to alternate nest sites is important for birds of prey early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to use different nests during courtship and to select a site for the season free of human influence. Signs have been posted at key access points into the closed areas and closures will be in effect until July 31. See AccessFund for further details.

Also, please see news item regarding Security Risk crag access.


Marijuana 

Though Colorado has passed Amendment 64 to legalize recreational marijuana use and limited quantity possession, the U.S. Justice Department issued a memo to federal prosecutors that the government would still "aggressively enforce" laws to prevent violations in eight areas of concern involving the drug including possession on federal property. To this point, Boulder Canyon is a complex network of land owners including the federal government. Be aware of where you are if you choose to use.


1,503 Total Routes


['4 Stars',46],['3 Stars',304],['2 Stars',718],['1 Star',408],['Bomb',17]
['<=5.6',56],['5.7',78],['5.8',119],['5.9',217],['5.10',351],['5.11',340],['5.12',210],['5.13',49],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',5],['V2-3',15],['V4-5',11],['V6-7',17],['V8-9',7],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',21],['>=V14',3]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Boulder Canyon:
East Slab   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   The Dome
The Owl   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches   The Dome
North Face Center   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   Cob Rock
Empor   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   Cob Rock
Animation aka Jaycene's Dance   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Animal World
Bitty Buttress   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 3 pitches   Bitty Buttress
The Young and the Rackless   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 300'   East Blob : Upper East Face
Cosmosis   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag
Dementia   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   Happy Hour Crag
Lust   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Second Tier : Tarot Wall
Free Willie   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Animal World
Athlete's Feat   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches   Castle Rock
Strange Science   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   Second Tier : Middle Wall
Country Club Crack   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches   Castle Rock
Animal Magnetism   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   Animal World
Arms Bazaar   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 1 pitch   Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag
Empire of the Fenceless   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   Easter Rock
Plan B   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk
Lucid Dreaming   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Plotinus Wall : Middle
Vasodilator   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   Blob Rock : Right Gully
Browse More Classics in Boulder Canyon

Featured Route For Boulder Canyon
At the beginning of the "double dihedral" crux section after clipping a piton. Photo by Tara S.

FM 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Third Buttress
This route is on the Third Elephant Buttress, on the north side. To access it walk along the pipe till you reach a gully between the Second and Third Buttresses. Scramble about 20 feet up the gully to the base of the climb. This climb follows a left facing dihedral that begins about 40 feet up. The route is to the right of Left Wing and starts up a short face to an obvious, chalked finger crack. Make some challenging moves to gain the finger crack (5.10ish) and follow the crack a few moves to a ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Boulder Canyon
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Closeouts and cosmetic 2nds at below wholesale prices.
News
Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   5
Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4
May 15 MP Mobile App: Partnered with Black Diamond and now Free   4
May 12 New Feature: Improve This Page   3
May 1 New Yosemite Bigwall Printed Guide Book Now Available 0

[ Read All News ]
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Photos of Boulder Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Fashionable Boulder Canyon climber pondering the abundance of protection for safe climbing  (cracks and seams)  back in 1979.
Fashionable Boulder Canyon climber pondering the a...
The kids playing in Boulder Creek.
The kids playing in Boulder Creek.
Up Spire, Boulder Canyon.
Up Spire, Boulder Canyon.
The Boulder Canyon gem, Castle Rock, photo: Bob Horan.
The Boulder Canyon gem, Castle Rock, photo: Bob Ho...
Climbing was a little different in BC in the not so distant past. In fact, really, really different!
Climbing was a little different in BC in the not s...
Hike just past Boulder Falls for lots of climbing options.
Hike just past Boulder Falls for lots of climbing ...
Simply Skimpy (V8).
Simply Skimpy (V8).
Making our way to the Black Widow Slab.
Making our way to the Black Widow Slab.
Sweeper (V5).
Sweeper (V5).
BETA PHOTO
Don't fall into this.
Don't fall into this.
DON'T TOP ROPE OR LOWER OFF OF FIXED ANCHORS, too many lazy morons, it's your life on the line, too.
DON'T TOP ROPE OR LOWER OFF OF FIXED ANCHORS, too ...
Looking "up" the canyon from the sky.
Looking "up" the canyon from the sky.
Boulder Canyon Bouldering, Top 5, Horan's Boulder, Fountain Grey Area.
Boulder Canyon Bouldering, Top 5, Horan's Boulder,...
Boulder Canyon encounters.
Boulder Canyon encounters.
Boulder painted in setting sunlight from the top of the Dome
Boulder painted in setting sunlight from the top o...
The Boulder Canyon streamside is virtually deserted at mid-weekday but can be a huge social scene on weekends and hot afternoons. This is a good palce to cool your feet after climbing. Photo by Tony Bubb, Y2K.
The Boulder Canyon streamside is virtually deserte...
Brent taking a post-climb-swim in Boulder Creek.
Brent taking a post-climb-swim in Boulder Creek.
Or this poison ivy.
Or this poison ivy.
Sport Park area, Boulder Canyon.
Sport Park area, Boulder Canyon.
Luke Childers working the powerful and classic moves on "Midnight Express-V14."
Luke Childers working the powerful and classic mov...
The mouth of Boulder Canyon can be a nice place to hang out before or after climbing on a hot summer afternoon. Photo by Tony Bubb, Y2K.
The mouth of Boulder Canyon can be a nice place to...
Comments on Boulder Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 29, 2014
By ac
Feb 13, 2005

Does anyone know whats going on with raptor closures in Boulder Canyon this year? There are new yellow signs saying many crags like Blob, Happy Hour, Security etc are closed. Today there were lots of cars parked in normal parking, and a ranger truck. Just curious if anyone knows the details of the closures.......

By Anonymous Coward
Jan 13, 2006

Avalon (cold this time of year), Animal World and Plotinus Wall (both warm this time of year). Solar Dome is also warm and worth a visit.

By Kyle P.
From: Lander, WY
Jan 3, 2008

Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon. <br />Beautiful.
Castle Rock, Boulder Canyon.
Beautiful.


Can anyone indentify this crag? CO119 from Nederland. A road winds around it with two small bridges to cross. The crack system on the right begins with a two bolt steep face.

By crankenstein
Jan 3, 2008

That is Castle Rock and the route is Country Club Crack.

By Kyle P.
From: Lander, WY
Jan 4, 2008

Thanks crank. You're the man.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Feb 5, 2008

Have the Boulder Canyon closures for 2008 been announced, yet? I have done some online searches, but I have not found any information.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Feb 5, 2008

From a user feedback mpecotte@fs.fed.us: "I wanted to share a press release from the Boulder Ranger District regarding implementing of seasonal raptor closures in Boulder Canyon, Boulder Colorado. Please read on, and pass the information on to your members and visitors. We hope you can help spread the word to protect golden eagle habitat during courtship, mating and fledging of young.

Forest Service Closes Areas in Boulder Canyon to Protect Wildlife

Boulder, February 1, 2008 – To protect nesting birds of prey, certain climbing areas on National Forest System lands in Boulder Canyon will be closed to all users beginning today, February 1. These closures protect a long-established golden eagle territory, including valuable alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to alternate nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence.

The areas commonly known as “Eagle Rock,” “Blob Rock,” “Bitty Buttress,” and “Security Risk” will be closed to climbing and other access. The “Security Risk Area” closure for 2008 includes Upper and Lower Security Risk. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera remain open. These areas are located along State Highway 119 and approximately one and one-half miles east of Boulder Falls.

Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31. For the most current closure information, check signs in the vicinity, or visit the Boulder Ranger District web site at www.fs.fed.us/r2/arnf/recreation/rock-climbing/brd/index.sht>>>.

Colorado Division of Wildlife (CDOW) biologists recommend protection of a quarter mile buffer zone around active and alternate nest sites for birds of prey. The Boulder Ranger District’s closures actually cover smaller areas around some nest sites, due to the topography and fragmented land ownership in the area. “We begin the Boulder Canyon closures on February 1 to protect these golden eagles during the important early nesting season and to be consistent with other local climbing area closures,” said Boulder District Ranger Christine Walsh. Ranger Walsh continues, “For three consecutive years, we have left Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera open to allow access for winter and spring climbing. As long as compliance with the closed areas is not compromised, we anticipate continuing this in future seasons.”

The Forest Service continues to cooperate with the CDOW and Boulder County Nature Association (BCNA) to protect important nesting areas for birds of prey. CDOW and BCNA volunteers have monitored nesting birds of prey on National Forest lands in Boulder Canyon for many years, providing valuable data about nesting activity.

It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Please help protect wildlife by respecting all closures, immediately leaving if you should accidentally enter one, and urging other visitors to do the same. Please also be aware that the City of Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks (303-441-3440) and Boulder County Parks and Open Space (303- 678-6200) also enforce closures to protect nesting birds of prey."

By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 17, 2008

A chonological list of guidebooks covering Boulder Canyon:

1961 - Rock Climbing Guide to the Boulder Colorado Area by Dave Dornan (1st ed?)
1964 - Rock Climbing Guide to the Boulder Colorado Area by Dave Dornan (2nd ed?)
1967 - High over Boulder: A Climber's and Hiker's Guide to Boulder, Colorado by Pat Ament
1970 - High over Boulder (2nd Ed) by Pat Ament
1972 - 5.10 by Pat Ament and Jim Erickson
1976 - High over Boulder (3rd Ed) by Pat Ament
1980 - Rocky Heights: A Guide to Boulder Free Climbs by Jim Erickson
1981 - Boulder Topographics - A Pictoral Guide to Boulder Climbs by Richard Rossiter
1983 - Pictoral Guide to Boulder Climbs (2nd Ed) by Richard Rossiter
1984 - High over Boulder (4th Ed) by Pat Ament
1985 - Pictoral Guide to Boulder Climbs (3rd Ed) by Richard Rossiter
1986 - Pictoral Guide to Boulder Climbs (4th Ed) by Richard Rossiter
1988 - Boulder Climbs North by Richard Rossiter
1992 - Best of Boulder Climbs (2nd Ed) by Richard Rossiter
1993 - Boulder Sport Climber's Guide by Mark Rolofson
1995 - High over Boulder (5th Ed) by Pat Ament and Cleve McCarty
1995 - Rock Climbing Colorado by Stewart Green
1996 - Boulder Sport Climber's Supplement Guide by Mark Rolofson
1996 - Best of Boulder Climbs (3rd Ed) by Richard Rossiter
1997 - Classic Climbs 02: Upper Dream Canyon by Richard Rossiter
1998 - Classic Boulder Climbs by Fred Knapp and Mike Stevens
1998 - Rock Climbing Boulder Canyon by Richard Rossiter
2000 - Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide by Mark Rolofson
2000 - Best of Boulder Climbs (4th Ed) by Richard Rossiter
2002 - Serious Play: A Guide to Traditional Front Range Classics 5.2-5.9 by Steve Dieckhoff
2005 - Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide Volume 2: The Upper Canyon by Mark Rolofson
2006 - Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide Volume 1: Lower Narrows to Dream Canyon by Mark Rolofson
2009 - Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs by Bob D'Antonio

By Dave J
Apr 17, 2008

Hey Bob D', when can we add your upcoming book to this list? I heard rumors that it was suppose to be out around this time, is that true?

By Mike Dallin
Apr 18, 2008

A few other guidebooks:

Mark Rolofson's 1993 Boulder Sport Climber's Guide includes, among many others, a section on Boulder Canyon: "Featuring a new selection of sport climbs from 5.11 to 5.13, not previously documented". Cover is a b&w picture of Mark climbing on the Fang in SSV.

Mark Rologson's 1995 Boulder Sport Climber's Guide is an update that greatly expands the Boulder Canyon section: "Introducing a new and growing selection of sport climbs from 5.9 to 5.13c on featured granite." Cover is a color picture of Dianne Barrow climbing at Security Risk.

Fred Knapp's Front Range Topropes also includes Boulder Canyon. I have his first ed, but he doesn't list a year on the copyright page.

By Chris Archer
Apr 18, 2008

Great job on the list, James. A few other guides that also covered Boulder Canyon are Dave Dornan's guide: Rock Climbing Guide to the Boulder Colorado Area, 1961 and 1964 and 5.10 by Pat Ament and Jim Erickson 1972?.

By Matt McKibben
From: Durango, Co
Jul 24, 2008

Anyone know of any good shady afternoon crags in Boulder Canyon?

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 24, 2008

Tonnere Tower is a good summer crag. Sport Land, on the east face, is in full shade after 2pm this time of year. Treasure Wall, The Garden, and Creekside, on the north face, are in shade for much of the day. The routes at Creekside are right next to Boulder Creek, and get cool breezes off the creek as well.

By Jacob Richey
Nov 14, 2008

What's the steepest sector in Boulder Canyon that gets a lot of sun? I'm taking a lot of falls for a science project and don't want to get scraped up.

By Dan Levison
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 14, 2008

Hey Matt:

The steepest section of Boulder Canyon that gets a lot of sun is Bitty Buttress (The Lorax). Your best bet is to go up to the final crux on the Lorax and jump off -- massive air...probably the steepest route in Bo-Can.

DL

By jasonhudson
Jul 1, 2009

I am visiting the area. This is my first year lead climbing so I am looking for single pitch sport routes around 5.8. So far my limit is 5.9. Thanks.

By Nick Fury
From: Boulder, Colorado
Aug 14, 2009

Bob D'Antonio your guidebook is priceless. I love how you incorporated the history of Boulder Canyon, as well as color coding trad and sport routes among other things. Thanks for the effort.

By Greg Howland
Aug 15, 2009

I lost a BD ATC-Guide two weeks ago or so up in Boulder Canyon. I think I lost it around the Dome/Elephant Butresses area (but could be somewhere else). I'm just a poor college kid with no money and now no belay device. If you found it and returned it, I would be extremely grateful and would be more than happy to reward you with some beer.

By Cale Farnham
Aug 20, 2009

Greg, I didn't see it around and know how that feels, brother! I'm out of Loveland and have an extra BD Guide I'm not using if you'd like to have it? Let's get out on a climb soon and I'll hook it up for you, man!

Cale
9703910066

By The Good Life Denver
Nov 11, 2009

We too want to congratulate Bob D'Antonio and Wolverine Press on their fantastic full-color photo guidebook, Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs (released just this summer). We found it to be one of the two best climbing guidebooks in the region--and the best if you are a sport climber only. If you are looking to climb Boulder Canyon, we highly recommend getting that book! Our review of it can be found here: www.thegoodlifedenver.com/2009/11/11/good-guidebooks-rock-cl>>>

By nadeleets
Apr 16, 2010

I found an old crash pad by Castle Rock. I climbed until sunset, and no one claimed it. If this is your long lost crash pad and are able to describe it, I'll gladly return it to you.

By misha zavalov
From: Boulder, Co.
May 21, 2010

Stashing a pad out here sounds ABSOLUTELY retarded to me.... Good God, people, sack up... and carry your pads wherever you go.

By Kelly Hughes
Jul 27, 2010

Gear found at the base of Luminosity today around 4pm [7/27/10]. If it's yours, please email Kelly at kel.and.har@gmail.com and describe the items.

By nick martino
Sep 15, 2010

Found a fairly new Bo Can Guide Book at the base of a crag on 9-14-10. Let me know what crag if it is yours.
Nick Martino

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 29, 2011

From Bev Baker, NF wildlife biologist:

No nesting for the Boulder Canyon eagles this year, that we've been able to find. They have been seen in the territory and added green branches to one nest in March, but didn't settle anywhere as far as we know. All of the National Forest seasonal Boulder Canyon closures are being reopened, and signs will be removed today.

From John Bustos, Public Affairs Officer, Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests and Pawnee National Grassland:

Boulder, Colo. (April 29) – On April 29, the Forest Service will reopen Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon.

These areas have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. The areas, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls, are located along State Highway 119.

The Forest Service anticipates reinstating closures in Boulder Canyon next Feb. 1 to allow the birds to choose nest sites without being disturbed.

It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.

For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas or call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Jan 26, 2012

From Bev Baker, Wildlife Biologist, Boulder Ranger District:

Boulder, Colo. (January 25, 2012) – The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho & Roosevelt National Forests will implement its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon beginning February 1.
These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence.

Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31.

By George Bracksieck
Mar 4, 2012

This post is in regard to a rock named "Valor" on page 129 of D'Antonio's "Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs." Today we climbed two routes that are incorrectly drawn on the photo at the bottom of the page. We did one route (4 bolts to bolted anchors) on the pictured rock. We did another route (2 bolts plus gear) on a small wall a short distance up and left from the pictured rock. The namesake route, "Valor," doesn't seem to exist, or it may just be a loose pile.

By George Bracksieck
Mar 5, 2012

From an editor interested in accuracy, here are few more thoughts about Valor:

The photo on p. 129 is of a rock that resembles a pinnacle, which does happen to be just off of the approach "trail" (the location described for route #5), on the way up and left to a short wall that is not pictured in the book. Both rocks lie above and behind the top of Mind Shift Cliff.

On the "pinnacle," we did a 45-foot route that underclings a short, diagonal roof on the right side of the rock to gain an arete, has four bolts, and could be 11c/d. The author called the 11c/d "Schizophrenia," but he called the route on the pInnacle "The Pinnacle of Success."

On the small wall, we did a 80-foot route that climbs a short face to gain a finger crack and other intermittent cracks, has two bolts, takes gear up to 1.5 inches, could be 11b/c, and has NO bolted anchor. The author called the 11b/c "The Pinnacle of Success," but he called the route on the short wall "Schizophrenia." Confused? I think the author is. Both routes are NOT on the same rock, as indicated in the photo on p. 129.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 15, 2012

From Bev Baker, USFS wildlife biologist:

U.S. Forest Service to reopen most climbing areas in Boulder Canyon

www.fs.usda.gov/arp
Contact: Boulder Ranger Station Visitor Information Services,

(303) 541-2500

Boulder, Colo. March 15 – This Mon., March 19, the U.S. Forest Service will reopen Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon. The Eagle Rock area remains closed to climbing and other activities and is expected to remain closed through July 31, 2012.

By suckMYbistrong
Jun 1, 2012

Hi! I am new to Boulder, I have a question about top roping in the area. I am a new climber, and I don't know how to set up anchors using trees, or rocks, I only know how to set up TR anchors using bolts. Are there any routes between 5.7 and 5.10 where I can hike up to the bolts to set up TR anchors?

By Parker Pflaum
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 8, 2013

I left a watch at The Riviera area (in the Bihedral) of Boulder Canyon on Friday, April 5th. If found, please respond to this post. The watch is a cheap, Target, Casio, Quartz, black watch with an analog, white face.

By Joe Sambataro
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 28, 2013

New Study Shows Climbers are Main Recreational Users of Boulder Canyon

Follow the link for more information. Thanks to all the volunteers who completed the surveys.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Feb 3, 2014

From Bev Baker:

Date: Feb. 3, 2014

BOULDER, Colo. – The Boulder Ranger District of the Arapaho and Roosevelt National Forests implemented its annual area closures at Security Risk, Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress in Boulder Canyon on February 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season.

These areas are located along State Highway 119 approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls. Happy Hour, Bihedral, and Riviera will remain open, as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure information will be available online at local climbing websites and at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation (click on Boulder Canyon for more info). Closures are effective from February 1 through July 31. Volunteers and Forest Service personnel will monitor the areas, and some areas may be reopened prior to July 31. It is against Federal and State law to disturb any nesting bird of prey.

The closures help protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory, including vital alternate nest sites. Undisturbed access to multiple nest sites is important for birds of prey, especially early in the nesting season, to give them a chance to visit multiple nests during courtship and to select a site for the season, free of human influence. “Closures in Boulder Canyon are vitally important to protect one of only a handful of known golden eagle nesting territories in Boulder County. Their specific habitat needs limit what areas they can use for mating and fledging their young,” said Sylvia Clark, Boulder District Ranger. Contact Boulder Ranger District at 303-541-2500 for more information.

By Nick Hamel
Apr 21, 2014

I'm headed to Boulder Canyon in a few weeks and was wondering where the best place to camp is. I don't need anything fancy, just a place fairly close to the climbing.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 22, 2014

From the news: they are going to dredge Boulder Creek from Boulder Falls all the way downstream. It will close the creek to playing/being in the water with a reported $1000 fine for violators.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
20 hours ago

From Bev Baker, USFS Wildlife Biologist:

BOULDER, Colo. – The Boulder Ranger District of the Roosevelt National Forest will lift the golden eagle climbing closure for the Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress climbing areas in Boulder Canyon on July 31.

For the most current closure information, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit the website at www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/recreation/climbing/recarea/?rec>>>.