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Boulder aid, 3-day trip.
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By MarcRobinson
Aug 31, 2010

I'm headed to Boulder for a few days around September 24 and want to get in as much moderate solo aid (up to the occasional move of A3/C3) as possible, so I'm looking for recommendations. I'm most interested in finding a cluster of routes close to each other, for efficiency's sake -- i.e., eliminate time spent driving and shlepping gear and maximize time on the rock. The reason for this trip is that I was too slow in the Valley this spring and need to speed up. I don't live in a climbing area and need to get more efficient. Sure, 3 or 4 days won't be enough, but at least it couldn't hoit. Oh, in case you're wondering -- I'll be soloing because everyone around here seems to be dedicated to gyms and sport climbing. I'm trad, hate climbing gyms, and am training for a Valley wall next spring.
Advice? Thanks in advance.


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By jack roberts
Aug 31, 2010

Marc,

Drive up Boulder Canyon and climb on Castle Rock. The rock is very similar to Yosemite and you won't get a shorter approach with a high concentration of aid routes. Bob D'antono's is the guide to get.


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By Kevin Stricker
From Evergreen, CO
Sep 1, 2010

Once you have warmed up on Castlerock head up to Lumpy Ridge and try your hand at some real aid routes on the Twin Owls. Just make sure in both instances you are going clean as most everything on both formations has been freed.

Have Fun.


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By Tombo
From Boulder
Sep 1, 2010
1/3 of the way up Spire, just above where my piece blew.

Marc,

I'd agree on Castle Rock especially for soloing, the roof area alone has two C1's I've done and another which I believe is C3. I may be able to get out that weekend, drop me a line if interested in a partner. Above Boulder Falls is China Doll a C3 multi pitch and the Twin Owls has a bunch of C2-C3's.

Tom


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By MarcRobinson
Sep 2, 2010

Thanks, Jack, Kevin, and Tombo. Curiously enough, Catle Rock was at the top of my list. I'm glad to see it confirmed by more knowledgeable people than me. I'll try to get a copy of that guidebook before I go, and if not, I'll make do with the one I already have. Tombo, I'll e-mail you; climbing with a partner is usually better than soloing.


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By Adrian Hill
Sep 2, 2010

Agreed on the Castle Rock options. Another short route, with a 5 min.
approach in Boulder Canyon is an obvious diagonal crack on Practice
Rock. Requires only wires and a couple of cams. Gets plenty of sun too.
There's probably enough information on this site to get to all the
routes without buying a guidebook - if you need more info., send me a
personal e-mail.

Good luck, and be persistent - the main attribute required for big walls!

Adrian


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