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Gnat Man Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bottoms up T 
Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun T 
Knock the Bottom Out of It T,S 
P-Coat Junction T 
P-Coat Sleeve 
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Bottoms up 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: George & Catriona Reid, Todd & Donette Swain; October 1994.
Page Views: 1,738
Submitted By: Randy Carmichael on Oct 29, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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BETA PHOTO: Dickies Cliff & Gnat Man Crag looking SW

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Good crack, good pro, spicy crux (for 5.7 anyway).

Bottoms Up is the well defined left-facing crack located on the right side of Gnat Man Crag. Negotiate a tricky start in a clean corner, then head up the classic crack, place some good pro below the bulge and head left and up to the next crack. Follow the 2nd crack as it angles right. Setup an anchor after the rock angle eases.

The bulge is definitely the mental crux, because there isn't any pro until you reach the 2nd crack.

I think this climb is about 120 feet high.

Descent: Head right/west until you find easy 3rd class terrain to scramble back to the valley floor. It is possible to down climb into the same narrow gully used on the approach, but this involves 4th class down climbing. In any event, you will need to re-climb the same 4th class approach you initially used to get back to the base of Gnat Man Crag and your packs.


Standard rack up to a #3 Camalot.

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By Chris Owen
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 13, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Thrilling moves left and up out of the alcove really make this route.
By Jack J
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 4, 2013

Started lead to the right of the base of the climb. I don't think this is a 5.7 if you start at the true start of the crack. 40 feet up, the hump with no protection is exciting. From the top hike west, and I descended the second gully that is a little class 4. Not the side with the big 127-hour looking boulder. I think most people keep hiking past this gully to an easier down climb.
By Idaho Bob
From: McCall, ID
May 16, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Possible to protect the crux with a blue BD nut. I called it 5.7+ due to the starting moves.
By Klimbien
From: St.George Orem Littleton Vegas
Nov 17, 2014

The "so called crux", I didn't think was the crux as the climbing was consistent and it protected well. As Idaho Bob stated there a multiple options for passive gear. Fun route, definitely worth jumping on.
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