Bottoms up 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 120 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | George & Catriona Reid, Todd & Donette Swain; October 1994. |
| Submitted By: | Randy Carmichael on Oct 29, 2004 |
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BETA PHOTO: Dickies Cliff & Gnat Man Crag looking SW
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Description Good crack, good pro, spicy crux (for 5.7 anyway).
Bottoms Up is the well defined left-facing crack located on the right side of Gnat Man Crag. Negotiate a tricky start in a clean corner, then head up the classic crack, place some good pro below the bulge and head left and up to the next crack. Follow the 2nd crack as it angles right. Setup an anchor after the rock angle eases.
The bulge is definitely the mental crux, because there isn't any pro until you reach the 2nd crack.
I think this climb is about 120 feet high.
Descent: Head right/west until you find easy 3rd class terrain to scramble back to the valley floor. It is possible to down climb into the same narrow gully used on the approach, but this involves 4th class down climbing. In any event, you will need to re-climb the same 4th class approach you initially used to get back to the base of Gnat Man Crag and your packs.
Protection Standard rack up to a #3 Camalot.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 13, 2011
rating: 5.7 PG13
| Thrilling moves left and up out of the alcove really make this route. |
By Jack J
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 4, 2013
| Started lead to the right of the base of the climb. I don't think this is a 5.7 if you start at the true start of the crack. 40 feet up, the hump with no protection is exciting. From the top hike west, and I descended the second gully that is a little class 4. Not the side with the big 127-hour looking boulder. I think most people keep hiking past this gully to an easier down climb. |
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