Melissa Lipani entering the crux. Photo by Adam Ho...
An aptly named route, Bottom Feeder climbs the short corner at the base of the cliff. Though the corner itself is quite beautiful, and the crux moves are engaging, the fact that the route ends at a ledge one third of the way up the cliff detracts from the overall quality.
Bottom feeder is a very popular project for boulderers. Stick clip the second bolt. A V7 sequence between the second and third bolts represents the meat of the route. Jugs follow to the anchors.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jul 2, 2007
Yes, it is short.... No, it's not the best Rumney 5.13...but as the description states the crux moves are "engaging" or as I put it wicked hard but fun.... No matter its length, climbing this route will bring you to respect it....
i heard rumor of far left feet almost to the arete... any one have foot beta on this? im having some feet issues haha....
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Campton, NH Aug 24, 2009
I never used feet that far left. I think that takes you away from the good handholds. I think the trick is to get farther RIGHT, using the footholds on the right wall. This allows you to lay back off that sidepull above the little pocket thing. Does this help?
a little :) i think i was thinking about that when i was on it but i dont know if i gave it too much thought lol :) i may have to just face the facts haha.... its a damn hard route :)
By James Otey From: NH Aug 25, 2009 rating: 5.13a7c+29IX+29E6 6c
Subtle foot movements and body positions are key to efficiently getting into the lefthand sidepull. Feet to the right are key as well.
By Colin R From: Ottawa, ON Apr 25, 2010 rating: 5.12d7c28IX28E6 6b
The rumor you heard is true about the far left feet. I believe I had both feet smeared with one way out left and one closer (but also on the left face) in some contorted position to latch the side pull before bringing my right foot back again to the other side.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Campton, NH Apr 26, 2010
I see that on your personal website (which looks cool BTW), you rate Bottom Feeder 13a. Yet, here you have rated it 12c/d. What gives?
By Monomaniac Administrator From: Morrison, CO Apr 26, 2010
Ha! Nice catch Jay!
By Colin R From: Ottawa, ON Jul 19, 2010 rating: 5.12d7c28IX28E6 6b
Yes, good observation. If you don't mind a slightly political answer I'll do my best to explain....
I did Bottom Feeder back in 2004 and felt it was V6/7 or 12d/13a and when I first did the web site I added it as 13a (probably because it's the only one I have done - maybe). Since then, basically I've been climbing a lot more in Vermont and the grades are really (ahem) sandbagged and I guess it's caused me to rethink things. I guess in my mind I just try to make everything internally consistent but in reality it's not possible. I don't even know how hard BF would feel now.