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Bottom Feeder 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Chris Smith, 1995
Page Views: 3,648
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Oct 4, 2006
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Melissa Lipani entering the crux. Photo by Adam Ho...

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An aptly named route, Bottom Feeder climbs the short corner at the base of the cliff. Though the corner itself is quite beautiful, and the crux moves are engaging, the fact that the route ends at a ledge one third of the way up the cliff detracts from the overall quality.

Bottom feeder is a very popular project for boulderers. Stick clip the second bolt. A V7 sequence between the second and third bolts represents the meat of the route. Jugs follow to the anchors.


4 bolts.

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Melissa post-crux. Photo by Adam Holmes <br />
Melissa post-crux. Photo by Adam Holmes
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By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 2, 2007

Yes, it is short.... No, it's not the best Rumney 5.13...but as the description states the crux moves are "engaging" or as I put it wicked hard but fun.... No matter its length, climbing this route will bring you to respect it....

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Aug 24, 2009

i heard rumor of far left feet almost to the arete... any one have foot beta on this? im having some feet issues haha....

By Jay Knower
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 24, 2009

I never used feet that far left. I think that takes you away from the good handholds. I think the trick is to get farther RIGHT, using the footholds on the right wall. This allows you to lay back off that sidepull above the little pocket thing. Does this help?

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Aug 24, 2009

a little :) i think i was thinking about that when i was on it but i dont know if i gave it too much thought lol :) i may have to just face the facts haha.... its a damn hard route :)

By James Otey
From: NH
Aug 25, 2009
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c

Subtle foot movements and body positions are key to efficiently getting into the lefthand sidepull. Feet to the right are key as well.

By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Apr 25, 2010
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

The rumor you heard is true about the far left feet. I believe I had both feet smeared with one way out left and one closer (but also on the left face) in some contorted position to latch the side pull before bringing my right foot back again to the other side.

By Jay Knower
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 26, 2010

Hi Colin,

I see that on your personal website (which looks cool BTW), you rate Bottom Feeder 13a. Yet, here you have rated it 12c/d. What gives?

By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 26, 2010

Ha! Nice catch Jay!

By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Jul 19, 2010
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

Hey Jay,

Yes, good observation. If you don't mind a slightly political answer I'll do my best to explain....

I did Bottom Feeder back in 2004 and felt it was V6/7 or 12d/13a and when I first did the web site I added it as 13a (probably because it's the only one I have done - maybe). Since then, basically I've been climbing a lot more in Vermont and the grades are really (ahem) sandbagged and I guess it's caused me to rethink things. I guess in my mind I just try to make everything internally consistent but in reality it's not possible. I don't even know how hard BF would feel now.

I suppose I should reconsider...