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The Lower Tier
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Beer Dog 
Botonga 
Brace for Impact 
Canine Corner 
Free at Last 
Git 'Er Done 
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Leave No Trace 
Like a Wonk 
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Release the Kraken 
Tinnitus 
Where's Ron 
Wonky 

Botonga 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Bill Morris and Pebby Johns, fall 2001
Page Views: 1,075
Submitted By: Tony B on May 18, 2003
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Above the difficulties. Photo by Lenny Miller.
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Description 

This route is not marked in Rossiter's Bihedral section of the Boulder Canyon book and is not apparently described on this site yet. This seemed to be the buttress 'below' route #1 in Rossiter's topo. From the normal approach to the Bihedral, just before the scrambling starts off of the trail, take a sharp left and go west to a short buttress with several bolted routes on it. This is the second bolted route from the right, starting about 15' left of Leave No Trace. See ?beta photo?. We found this route after the westward walk-off from the Bihedral route.

The route is safely bolted, but without long slings, the rope runs funny, particularly between the 2nd and 3rd bolts (or was it 1st and 2nd) where the rope goes sharply left over a dark sharp corner/flake. Using 2' sling on the lower and upper kept this a little better. It's not a bad climb, there's just not much to it. Rap from the rings to keep from abusing your rope; don't lower off.

Does anyone know the history of this route?

Addendum: There is a 2nd pitch with 3 bolts, a #1 Camalot & orange Alien can be useful, 5.8, 70', 2-bolt anchor. See Like a Wonk.


Protection 

A set of 4 draws + some for the anchor.



Photos of Botonga Slideshow Add Photo
This is the route.  Real simple.
BETA PHOTO: This is the route. Real simple.
up there
up there
There are two moves on this climb. This is the first. Getting to here is a little dicey. The climbing is easy, but the rock is very suspect.
There are two moves on this climb. This is the fir...
Comments on Botonga Add Comment
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By pfwein
May 8, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Not worth too much by itself, but had a decent move or two and is a nice extra pitch when doing Calling All Trad Climbers etc.

By Bill Morris
Jun 10, 2009

History of "The Unknown sport climb" on the lower tier in Boulder Canyon: Was putup Pebby Johns and myself in the Fall of 2001. There used to be a sizable rock on the lower part that formed a nice overhang but that fell off a few years back. It was originally protected there with a couple wires.
I placed the rap rings to the right because we we also set it up so one could top rope the route to the right (Leave no Trace) which I think Moe Hershoff and others placed some bolts later on. We called the Unknown sport route "Botonga" and the other left unnamed at the time after toproping it and thinking it to be around 11a-11b. -Bill Morris