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This route is not marked in Rossiter's Bihedral section of the Boulder Canyon book and is not apparently described on this site yet. This seemed to be the buttress 'below' route #1 in Rossiter's topo. From the normal approach to the Bihedral, just before the scrambling starts off of the trail, take a sharp left and go west to a short buttress with several bolted routes on it. This is the second bolted route from the right, starting about 15' left of Leave No Trace. See ?beta photo?. We found this route after the westward walk-off from the Bihedral route.
The route is safely bolted, but without long slings, the rope runs funny, particularly between the 2nd and 3rd bolts (or was it 1st and 2nd) where the rope goes sharply left over a dark sharp corner/flake. Using 2' sling on the lower and upper kept this a little better. It's not a bad climb, there's just not much to it. Rap from the rings to keep from abusing your rope; don't lower off.
Does anyone know the history of this route?
Addendum: There is a 2nd pitch with 3 bolts, a #1 Camalot & orange Alien can be useful, 5.8, 70', 2-bolt anchor. See Like a Wonk.
A set of 4 draws + some for the anchor.
Above the difficulties. Photo by Lenny Miller.
There are two moves on this climb. This is the fir...
May 8, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Not worth too much by itself, but had a decent move or two and is a nice extra pitch when doing Calling All Trad Climbers etc.
|By Bill Morris|
Jun 10, 2009
History of "The Unknown sport climb" on the lower tier in Boulder Canyon: Was putup Pebby Johns and myself in the Fall of 2001. There used to be a sizable rock on the lower part that formed a nice overhang but that fell off a few years back. It was originally protected there with a couple wires.
I placed the rap rings to the right because we we also set it up so one could top rope the route to the right (Leave no Trace) which I think Moe Hershoff and others placed some bolts later on. We called the Unknown sport route "Botonga" and the other left unnamed at the time after toproping it and thinking it to be around 11a-11b. -Bill Morris