All Locations > Washington > Northwest Region > Hwy 20 & N Casc… > N Cascades

Boston Basin Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Boston Basin

Aiguille de l'M 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2

Boston Peak 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1

Forbidden Peak 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4

Johannesberg Mountain 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2

Mount Buckner 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1

Mount Torment 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2

Sahale Peak 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2

Sharkfin Tower 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	6,000 ft
GPS:	48.50629, -121.05147 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	215,806 total · 1,191/month
Shared By:	Mike McL on Jun 3, 2009
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details

Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.

Description

Boston Basin lies within the heart of Washington's stunning North Cascades. The big attraction here is Forbidden Peak, particularly its West Ridge, which is included among Steck and Roper's 50 Classics. Other draws here include Sahale Peak, Boston Peak, Mount Buckner, Mount Torment, and Sharkfin Tower.

The objectives here are truly alpine, and most require some snow and/or glacier travel. Be prepared for inclement weather. This is the Cascades, right?

If you're not going car-to-car, permits are required to camp in Boston Basin.

For permit information, contact:

nps.gov/noca/planyourvisit/…

Wilderness Information Center
7280 Ranger Station Road
Marblemount, WA 98267
Phone: (360) 854-7245

Fred Beckey wrote the definitive three-part guide to the Cascades. The Boston Basin area is covered in Volume II. Jim Nelson's and Peter Potterfield's "Selected Climbs in the Cascades" (Volumes I and II) is also a great series.

Getting There

Driving directions: From Seattle, take I-5 North. Exit in Burlington for WA 20 East, which becomes the North Cascades Highway. Drive about 50 miles east to Marblemount. Make a right in Marblemount onto Cascade River Road. There's a small pullout on your left directly opposite Johannesburg Mountain, shortly after mile marker 22 (although Beckey’s guidebook says it’s 21.7 miles). Park here. If you've gone to the end of the road, you've gone too far.

The approach to Boston Basin starts directly from the parking pullout. After a short while, the trail climbs very steeply uphill and is very eroded. Stay on the trail, crossing several streams. Continue switchbacking uphill until out of the trees. Boston Basin lies at about 5700' . Campsites and a composting toilet (best crap you'll ever take) are located in Boston Basin. Several options for campsites are available.

16 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location:	Boston Basin Change
Type:	to Trad Sport Toprope
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:	then:

Classic Climbing Routes at Boston Basin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

Steep Snow 11 ● North Face Snow, Alpine Mt Buckner
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Easy Snow PG13 58 ● Quien Sabe Glacier Snow, Alpine Sahale Peak
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Easy Snow 10 ● Northeast Buttress Snow, Alpine Johannesberg Mountain
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c 35 ● Southeast Ridge Trad, Alpine 3 pitches Sharkfin Tower
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c Easy Snow 56 ● Sahale Glacier Trad, Snow, Alpine Sahale Peak
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c 5 ● North Ridge Trad, Alpine 4 pitches Aiguille de l'M
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R 4 ● Northwest Ridge Trad, Alpine 10 pitches Boston Peak
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow 274 ● West Ridge Trad, Snow, Alpine Forbidden Peak
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow 46 ● Torment-Forbidden Traverse Trad, Snow, Alpine Mt Torment
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow 27 ● North Ridge Trad, Snow, Alpine Forbidden Peak
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c 73 ● East Ridge Direct Trad, Alpine 6 pitches Forbidden Peak
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 20 ● Northwest Face Trad, Alpine 7 pitches Forbidden Peak
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 8 ● Southeast Face Trad, Alpine 2 pitches Sharkfin Tower