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Peak 11,357
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Boss Man T 

Boss Man 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Alex Baker, Owen Bissell, Eric Bissell
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,090
Submitted By: Scott Bennett on Jan 11, 2010

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Owen up high with 100' of fingers on pitch 5

Description 

Boss Man is a new route on Peak 11,357 in the Toulumne high country. Expect adventure getting out here and climbing the route, but we were pleasantly surprised by the rock quality and cleanliness. I won't go into too much detail, because the topo made by the FA team is excellent.

A few comments of my own:
-The first pitch is definitely the standout crux lead. With tricky, strenuous pro and sustained climbing, this one will get you warmed up in a hurry.
-It seemed pretty straightforward to link P3&4
-The route faces West, so a warm day and a late start might be in order.


Location 

When looking at the cirque from below, Boss Man climbs the second to last tower from the left. The route starts near the tower's right side. Look for some fixed gear low on the route.


Protection 

Again, see topo. I think gear up to #2 Camalot is sufficient (you probably don't need the "optional" 4" piece).



Photos of Boss Man Slideshow Add Photo
The outstanding topo from the FA party.
BETA PHOTO: The outstanding topo from the FA party.
The Cirque above Nelson Lake, with the route "Boss Man" in Red
The Cirque above Nelson Lake, with the route "Boss...
BFK heading up P1.
BFK heading up P1.
Alex on the FA
Alex on the FA
Looking up the first pitch from the base.  The big roof is visible on the left skyline.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up the first pitch from the base. The big...
Alex getting into the underclings on the first pitch
Alex getting into the underclings on the first pit...
We approached from Echo Creek which was mellow but much longer.  We returned by heading toward Reymann Lake meadow and then gaining the ridge before heading down to Elizabeth Lake
BETA PHOTO: We approached from Echo Creek which was mellow but...
Comments on Boss Man Add Comment
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By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Jul 21, 2010

Go Alex and Grasshopper!

By kenr
Aug 31, 2013

Peak 11,357 ft is somewhere around latitude/longitude approx (37.8033,-119.3637) = (N37.8033 W119.3637)

It's not the same as Rafferty Peak, whose summit has lower altitude of 11,100 ft. Rather ... peak 11,357 is something like 1 mile somewhere SW from Rafferty.

By BFK
From: San Francisco
Jun 17, 2014

Did first pitch and bailed due to several factors:
-Got totally worked on the first pitch (scary lead)
-Lack of psych due to how bad the rock quality was on P1

I am curious how the upper pitches are, but if they are anything like P1 I wouldn't go back. Don't expect much jamming on that pitch,... or good pro. I'd call it heads-up, sustained & bouldery 5.11b/c.