Boss Man 5.11
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Alex Baker, Owen Bissell, Eric Bissell |
| Season: | Summer |
| Submitted By: | Scott Bennett on Jan 11, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: The outstanding topo from the FA party.
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Description Boss Man is a new route on Peak 11,357 in the Toulumne high country. Expect adventure getting out here and climbing the route, but we were pleasantly surprised by the rock quality and cleanliness. I won't go into too much detail, because the topo made by the FA team is excellent. A few comments of my own: -The first pitch is definitely the standout crux lead. With tricky, strenuous pro and sustained climbing, this one will get you warmed up in a hurry. -It seemed pretty straightforward to link P3&4 -The route faces West, so a warm day and a late start might be in order.
Location When looking at the cirque from below, Boss Man climbs the second to last tower from the left. The route starts near the tower's right side. Look for some fixed gear low on the route.
Protection Again, see topo. I think gear up to #2 Camalot is sufficient (you probably don't need the "optional" 4" piece).
The Cirque above Nelson Lake, with the route "Boss...
| BETA PHOTO: Looking up the first pitch from the base. The big...
| Alex getting into the underclings on the first pit...
| Alex on the FA
| Owen up high with 100' of fingers on pitch 5
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