|195 page views|
The 5.12- grade seems a bit of a sandbag, the crux of this below and turning the roof seemed every bit of V5 at least, in a situation where you will be hitting the wall hard if you blow it.
Barn door laybacking at the start, gain some jugs, and clip the 2nd bolt. Then follow the crack to the right which becomes a left facing corner past the third bolt which you have to reach way out right to clip. At the 4th bolt move out right across the face to reach slabby terrain shared with the route to the right. Work up this to a 5th bolt that is way out of line, use a 2 foot runner on this bolt. Very thin slab climbing leads back left to the arete and up to a jug near the arete, potentially bad fall here if you can't clip the 6th before moving up or committing to the arete. Move up and right over the lip to a jug and the 7th bolt, again potentially dangerous fall into the slab below. Mantle over with a left heal and head up and right to the anchor.
The left side of the big pillar in the middle of North Wall.
7 bolts and chain anchors.
Stick clip the first bolt.
Potentially dangerous falls between the 5th and 6th and 7th bolts.
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 30, 2009
This route would get another star or 2 if the bolting situation was sorted out. The 5th bolt needs to be movede as far left as possible and the 6th bolt really should have one below it and one above it while th ecurrent bolt protects next to nothing. The 7th bolt could be moved up a little but it does not need to be. Down lower there are some slight runouts but the climbing is relatively easy.