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Borrowed Time 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tom Howard, Dan Perry 1980
Page Views: 1,536
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Nov 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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BETA PHOTO: Jason near the top of Borrowed Time. Photo shows t...

Description 

Borrowed Time, a.k.a. Amputee, is the first easy route one comes to on the way up the approach trail. A short, bouldery crux involving an awkward undercling leads to an excellent moderate crack in a left-facing corner. You can place a tiny red Camalot or silver TCU to protect the crux moves, but a spot might be more in order.

Location 

Borrowed Time is located immediately after the large roof encountered on the approach. It's the first moderate-looking line one comes to. Look for a small placard near the base of the climb, which memorializes a climber who lost his life at Ship Rock

Protection 

Thin to 2".


Photos of Borrowed Time Slideshow Add Photo
About to enter the fun and easy climbing on Borrow...
BETA PHOTO: About to enter the fun and easy climbing on Borrow...
having a great time climbing
having a great time climbing

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By Chase Roskos
From: Golden, CO
Jul 12, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Hard to think of this as 5.9 because nearly all of the route is much easier, but the boulder problem at the bottom certainly is.
By Cody Bradford
From: Boone, NC
Jun 18, 2012

Be cautious of your gear in the right crack of the lieback section. It is quite deep. Avoid the "cave move" at the top by traversing out on the face once you reach the lip for a more interesting finish.
By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Sep 16, 2012

Nothing but good times on this route! Great way to access the upper tier and an overall fantastic route! The fist move is the only 9 part, the rest is cruising!
By Jonathan Dull
From: Boone, NC
Apr 16, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

As previously mentioned this climb offers a better way to reach the upper tier. Don't let the bouldery start keep you from hopping on this great line. There are two small underclings to start that both take good gear. If you are tall enough you may be able to reach the higher one to place a bomber red c3. A spot may be in order but if you blow it there is still potential for a jacked up ankle due to uneven rocks at the base.
By Emil Briggs
Jul 12, 2014

I think the rating on this is height dependent. I'm 5'8" and 5.9 feels about right. If you're tall the boulder problem start won't feel like much at all. But if you're really short it will feel more like a V2 move.