Borneo 

just a quick question to any of the informed

have bolts been added to pelicans dyke since mr. phinneys book?

thanks

Does anyone know what the climb to the immediate right of "Bolts for Bob" is? We climbed it last weekend and someone told us it was a new climb and rated "9ish."

Thanks

hey quickdraw the climb to the right of bolts for bob is called bushwhacker. we felt it climbed at 9. F.A. in September 07. i have not talked to anyone else that has climbed it. did it feel like a 9 to you and did you like it?

Does anyone know who placed the anchors and bolts on the new route "Bushwhacker"?

The lower bolt on the anchor should always have two quick links. It is totally jacked now as it was equalized for one quick link. The third bolt needs too be about two feet lower so it can be clipped from the natural stance at the undercling. The current clip in is the crux of the route and sets one up for a PG-13 or R rated slab fall.

I would have to say the rating is more in the lower to mid 5.10 range if you stay left of the bolts. At any point you bail one move right into a low fifth class gully after the third bolt making the route a bit contrived. I toproped this route a number of years ago and just said no to bolting it.

Brent i put the bolts and anchors in this route. i will go up and change the anchors. as far as the third bolt there is a big jug up and just right of the undercling. it makes the third clip and this move very easy. the crux is then moving your feet out of the groove at the last bolt.

Eric, thanks for putting in the route. Please consider posting your new route on this website.

I'm 6'2" tall and couldn't come close to clipping the third bolt off the jug you mentioned (still 2 feet out of reach). The stance at the bolt is very awkward and exposes the climber to a nasty slab slamming fall.

The gate of the rope biner also cross loads/rubs against the edge below the third bolt. I've heard the same comments from a couple of others recently. I left a chalk bulls eye where I believe the bolt might have been better situated.

I have moved several bolts through the years on my own routes due to the same reasons... it happens. The rest of the placements are fine.

Adding a quick link to the chain and another to the lower bolt is one solution for the anchor.

Sorry I didn't check the comments sooner. I'm not trying to ignore you.

I climbed it both ways - except at the very last bolt where I moved right to the anchors. I would rate it a 9ish going right at 3rd bolt. (It's harder than Bolts for Bob.) Staying to the left is tougher - maybe 10ish. I didn't think it was particularly difficult to clip either way. I'm about 5'10" & it didn't feel like a long reach.

Anyone know the route between pelicans dyke and bolts for bob?

Kaeley,
The route you are asking about is "Xenophobia" 5.11+. Most whom have climbed this line won't recommend it to friends for what that is worth. The bolts are in strange positions and the line is defined by the bolt placements not by the natural flowing line. Kind of the same thing that occurs on the original version of Pelican Dyke (left bolted start).
Hope this helps,
Brent