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> Asia
> China
> Yunnan Province
> Lijiang Area
> Liming (黎明)
> Lisu Area
> Pillars area
Born to Be Wild
5.11c/d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Pillars area
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[Redacted] T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Air China T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Born to Be Wild T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Bush Remedy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Clam Digger T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Clam Digger "Direct" T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Dancing with Dragons T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dawn Chimney, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Decepticon T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ding Dong Goes To USA T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Dungeons and Dragons T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Faraway Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Funky Dan, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Men In Tights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Morass T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Orange Crescent T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Over the Rainbow T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Sandworm T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Screaming at the Faraway Corner T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Screaming at the Moon (half) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Staircase of the Elves T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Swan Song T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Yellow Brick Road Rage (YBRR, full route) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Zhoulei's Flake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Eben Farnworth |
| Page Views: | 724 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Ryder Stroud on Dec 27, 2014 |
| Admins: | Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball |
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Description
This climb will rely less on the crack climbing technique that defines Liming climbing and more on your ability to boulder high off the deck.
Start up the corner that leads to a finger tips-sized roof crack located to the left of the inverted roof offwidth "Over the Rainbow." Jam and squeeze your way to a nice rest ledge beneath the roof (corner crack could use more cleaning).
Place some gear over your head and/or out into the crack (place longer runners on the initial pieces to avoid rope drag) and traverse out the pumpy roof crack. Reach overhead and turn the roof with some gymnastic "oomf" to find a decent hold, and contort your way to a standing position using a faint crack above the roof. The chains will be just above.
Start up the corner that leads to a finger tips-sized roof crack located to the left of the inverted roof offwidth "Over the Rainbow." Jam and squeeze your way to a nice rest ledge beneath the roof (corner crack could use more cleaning).
Place some gear over your head and/or out into the crack (place longer runners on the initial pieces to avoid rope drag) and traverse out the pumpy roof crack. Reach overhead and turn the roof with some gymnastic "oomf" to find a decent hold, and contort your way to a standing position using a faint crack above the roof. The chains will be just above.
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