||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||T. Bubb, C. Parks, Nov 6, '04|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Autumn, when not closed or snowed in|
|Page Views: ||45|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Nov 6, 2004|
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Born Again is a modest route on a modest flatiron rock. The name was a play on a name. The Toddler was a tiny flatiron not far from the Matron, and the name was given to reflect it's diminutive size. The route name, Born Again, was a reflection of the name of the rock and also the climbing, whereas you have a breif "rebirthing" experience traveling through a few feet of chimney.
Find the rock as described and go to the South face. A thick, brilliant yellow stripe of lichen will help distinguisk this rock from others in the area. A second, similar tower, unclimbed at present, is just 50m west but lacks the gold stripe. Aside the gold strip is a left-facing corner that goes up and into a breif chimney and then crack to the slab up top, intersecting the NE corner of the rock. Climb this with mostly good cams or cans and bomber hexes.
At present there is no anchor on top. Fixing one might be a good idea to avoid the downclimb, but at present there is a low probability that this route will see more than a few repeat ascents over the years.
A standard rack. We used a few hexes and a few cams.