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 ADVANCED
West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amazing Grace S 
Borgoff's Blunder T,S 
Cowboy Boot Crack T,TR 
Fastest Drill S 
Grapefruit Dance S 
Indecent Exposure T 
Men at Work T,S 
Over the Rainbow T,S 
Pete & Bob's T 
Pillar Climb T 
Rainbow Bridge T,S 
Trigger Finger S,TR 
Unzipped S,TR 
Warren - Johnson S,TR 
Zipper, The T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Borgoff's Blunder 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: FA Michael Borgoff 1960's FFA Steve Cheyney, Pete Croft, Herby Hendricks 1960's
Page Views: 1,740
Submitted By: Chris R on Aug 8, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Jes Meiris, just below the crux on the first pitch...
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  • Description 

    West face of the North Gateway Rock. Start just south of the Blowouts bouldering area beneath a leftward-trending flake/crack. Climb the flake (5.6) and top out on a small ledge. Follow pins to your right and then up to a weird crux move (long reach and mantle on to a large ledge). Cruise up and to your left to a ledge near a tree, protecting either by slinging potholes (scant pro) or by tossing a large cam deep into one of the potholes (psychological pro). The climbing above the crux (to reach the anchors) is fairly easy (5.8), but I recall it being difficult to protect.Not the best route in the Garden, but worth doing if you're looking for something different.


    Protection 

    Mainly old drilled angles, supplemented with a small Alien or two and a couple of long runners for slinging potholes. A couple of fist-size cams protects the easy start in the crack.



    Photos of Borgoff's Blunder Slideshow Add Photo
    Mike Houston nearing the top of the Henry the Pig pitch on P3 of Borgoff's Blunder.  This is a very high quality pitch, despite being a little runout.
    Mike Houston nearing the top of the Henry the Pig ...
    The West Face of North Gateway Rock, showing a handful of routes, as follows: <br /> <br />A (yellow) = Borgoff's Blunder <br />B (green) = Rainbow Bridge <br />C (blue) = Men at Work <br />D (turquoise) = Pete and Bob's <br />E (purple) = Indecent Exposure <br /> <br />Hope that helps.
    BETA PHOTO: The West Face of North Gateway Rock, showing a han...
    Jes Meiris, just above the crux on the first pitch.
    Jes Meiris, just above the crux on the first pitch...
    Comments on Borgoff's Blunder Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Scott Edwards
    Oct 5, 2005

    This is a perfect route for using half ropes. The climbing after the crux gets a bit spicy. It's not hard climbing but a bit run out over less than perfect rock. I wouldn't say I slung a pothole, more like lassoed a rotten fin between gaping holes! Don't plan on "tossing a large cam deep into one of the potholes", because it's just not possible (they are too large, I was looking!). There's two good placements above the "Lassoe". In retrospect, a fun and memorable Garden climb. For the full meal deal, climb two more pitches to the top!

    By BWpete
    Jun 7, 2006

    None of the bolts appear to be new, but I found the route (crux pitch anyway) to be well bolted with a mix of half inch bolts with cold shut hangers, and some older pins. The crux was protected by an old angle, but is also just out of reach of the next bolt. If you start on Arch Crack, rather than going up under the large flake, use long slings to avoid rope drag. If you just climb the first pitch, you will probably need 9 draws, and two cams, .75 and 3.5 BD.

    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Jun 7, 2006

    What's with this Borghoff person? There was a "Borghoff's Botch" listed in an early Gunks guide (Gran? Blue Dick?). This was a variation to Tough Shift on the right side of the McCarthy Wall in the Gunks. If that's the same Borghoff, he botched in the Gunks and blundered in Garden of the Gods.

    I Googled on Borghoff and Gunks and found a Mike Borghoff mentioned on John Gill's site and a listing for Mike Borghoff doing the FA of Classic in the Gunks. If you Google on "Mike Borghoff" you'll find a number of climbing-related references.

    By Bosier Parsons
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Nov 3, 2007

    Above the crux there's a great medium stopper, followed by a great 0.4 Camalot (small grey), then the lasso which was not inspiring, and finally a good #2 C4 Camalot (yellow) to protect the last move. Classic!

    By Bosier Parsons
    From: Colorado Springs, CO
    Oct 22, 2008

    I had the pleasure of following Mike Houston up the whole route on Sunday. Great climbing all the way to the top, but definitely Garden spice. The description below is how we climbed the upper pitches. Info is taken from Mark Rolofson's guide.

    P2) Layback up the short corner above the belay to gain a big ledge behind a flake and belay on top of a pillar. (5.7, 50 feet)

    P3) Climb a thin and steep face past four pitons to a slab, then run it out to a nice belay on Hollywood Ledge with two pitons. (5.9+, 70 feet) *** It might be better to combine P2 and P3, but hard to say what the rope drag would be like. If you belay atop the pillar as we did, beware that if the leader falls, you might potentially land on your belayer.

    P4) The original route climbs out right here, and up the unprotected slab right of the major dihedral formation to the top of the wall (5.6 X). Instead, it is recommended to traverse left to a pin, then up and left on runout but beautiful slab climbing past four more pins to another big ledge (Vine Ledge). This pitch is known as Henry the Pig (5.8, 130 feet). Instead of belaying here, continue up the slab above past two more pins to the top. This pitch is known as the Vine Ledge Exit (5.7, 60 feet).

    Descend by scrambling through a notch to the northeast, accessing a large ledge that takes you back to the south and the top of Tourist Gully. Then down-climb Tourist Gully.