Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Borgoff's Blunder
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 13
votes
Routes in West Face
|
|
Amazing Grace S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
|
|
Arching Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
|
|
Borgoff's Blunder T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Cowboy Boot Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Fastest Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Grapefruit Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Horribly Heinous S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 PG13 |
|
|
Indecent Exposure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
|
|
Men at Work T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Over the Rainbow T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Pete & Bob's T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Pillar Climb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Rainbow Bridge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Trigger Finger S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Unzipped S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
|
|
Warren - Johnson S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
|
|
Zipper, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13 |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | FA Michael Borgoff 1960's FFA Steve Cheyney, Pete Croft, Herby Hendricks 1960's |
| Page Views: | 3,609 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Chris R on Aug 7, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal nesting closures
Details
Per Bret Tennis:
As of 3/29/23: the seasonal raptor closures are the same as in 2022 and recent years.
We have expanded the climbing closure for North Gateway Rock inside the Garden of the Gods. We expect our prairie falcons to fledge soon. Closures will be lifted once the raptors are safely flying and providing for themselves (or they leave the area).
Thank you,
Bret Tennis
Parks Operations Administrator
Garden of the Gods
Office: 719-219-0108
Bret.tennis@coloradosprings.gov
Old info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108) on 11/10/19:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is now open for rock climbing. The climbing closures on Sleeping Giant and the West Side of Gray Rock remain closed.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
As of 3/29/23: the seasonal raptor closures are the same as in 2022 and recent years.
We have expanded the climbing closure for North Gateway Rock inside the Garden of the Gods. We expect our prairie falcons to fledge soon. Closures will be lifted once the raptors are safely flying and providing for themselves (or they leave the area).
Thank you,
Bret Tennis
Parks Operations Administrator
Garden of the Gods
Office: 719-219-0108
Bret.tennis@coloradosprings.gov
Old info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108) on 11/10/19:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is now open for rock climbing. The climbing closures on Sleeping Giant and the West Side of Gray Rock remain closed.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2023
Details
Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: the seasonal closures are the same as in 2023 for 2024.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
West face of the North Gateway Rock. Start just south of the Blowouts bouldering area beneath a leftward-trending flake/crack. Climb the flake (5.6) and top out on a small ledge. Follow pins to your right and then up to a weird crux move (long reach and mantle on to a large ledge). Cruise up and to your left to a ledge near a tree, protecting either by slinging potholes (scant pro) or by tossing a large cam deep into one of the potholes (psychological pro). The climbing above the crux (to reach the anchors) is fairly easy (5.8), but I recall it being difficult to protect.Not the best route in the Garden, but worth doing if you're looking for something different.
6 Comments