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 ADVANCED
Tolcat Canyon Ice Climbs
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Boreas 
Eris 

Boreas 

WI3-4

   
Type:  Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus: WI3-4 [details]
FA: TR 2008, Lead 1/22/2009
Season: Cold winters
Page Views: 1,536
Submitted By: John Rogers on Dec 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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photo: Mooner

Description 

(god of the nothern wind)
Natrual ice that forms in cold days of winter.


Location 

1/4 mile off of Mt. Olympus trail. Approx two miles up.


Protection 

Two or three screws are fine.



Photos of Boreas Slideshow Add Photo
A shot of Boreas from the valley.  Better shots are on the way.
A shot of Boreas from the valley. Better shots ar...
Photo of Boreas
Photo of Boreas
Trail to boreas
BETA PHOTO: Trail to boreas
Boreas and Eris
BETA PHOTO: Boreas and Eris
Comments on Boreas Add Comment
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By Sam Cannon
From: Holladay, Utah
Jan 18, 2013

Checked out Boreas today (1/17/13). We hit it mid-day and found it in less-than-perfect conditions, but it was in and climbable. It's a beautifully aesthetic line, framed on either side by impressive ridges and great rock.

The approach involves a little bit of routefinding - take the standard trail for Olympus to the point where it cuts into Tolcat Canyon. From the seam of the "V" follow the trees across the base of the rock band (leaving the standard trail) crossing one short open section. Bushwhacking involved. You should pass a small cave/tunnel in the stone then angle upwards until you come into view of another ridge with a deep gully separating it from you. You should be standing on a point of sorts, and the climb will be left of and below a tree that sits on the prow of the point. The ice tops out with a bit of meandering up a gully and so it's not obvious where the climb is, but you should be able to spot some small ice-steps in the gully.

Worth the hike in for how pretty the climb is. Hit it on a cold day, early morning. Conditions around 2pm were not good for leading (at least for my head) as ice was not bonded very tightly to stone. I could see it being a great lead early morning on the 2nd day of a good cold snap.

The flow as seen from the trail.
The flow as seen from the trail.