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Boreal FS-QUATTRO rubber?
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By Count Chockula
From Littleton, CO
Mar 18, 2009
Count Chockula

Overall impressions? Likes/dislikes?

I tried on a pair of velcro Jokers recently and thought they were super comfy right out of the box...even sized down a 1/2 size from my street shoe size. I'm curious about the performance of their rubber in comparison to other shoe companies...can't find much info online (which may be somewhat telling).


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By slim
Administrator
Mar 18, 2009
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.

boreal rubber, is without ANY doubt, the worst EVER. you might as well duct tape hockey pucks to your feet, or just climb in converse all-stars with vaseline smeared on the bottom.

just my .02.


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By KathyS
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Mar 18, 2009
Me at the summit of Inner Course (5.4) in the Outlets.  Long, lovely, mellow route.  Well protected even.  My favorite lead from the trip.

slim wrote:
boreal rubber, is without ANY doubt, the worst EVER. you might as well duct tape hockey pucks to your feet, or just climb in converse all-stars with vaseline smeared on the bottom. just my .02.


Have you actually used the current Boreal rubber?

I have a pair of the Lunas, which are a low volume lace-up not too different from the Jokers in terms of shape and construction, at least from what I get from the Boreal site. They also use the FS-Quattro rubber. I have had no issues with the rubber at the Gunks or Red Rocks where I have used them in the last year. My main trad partner also sometimes wears Jokers, and has no issues, either. I had heard all the "Boreal rubber sucks" comments, and was afraid to try the Lunas, but they fit so well, I tried them anyway. Maybe the older versions were hard and slippery, but the bashing seems undeserved with the current rubber. These stick as well as any other shoes I've tried (Mad Rock, Evolv and Vibram XS-grip soles). They lasted a full season of climbing 1-3 days/week, virtually every week from April through October.

BTW, the Lunas are lined and stretched very little. They were wearable out of the box and didn't get baggy with use.

Kathy


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By Count Chockula
From Littleton, CO
Mar 18, 2009
Count Chockula

Thanks for the feedback...both of you. Honestly I have only read bad things about there rubber, albeit (as you point out Kathy) the info I've been able to find online seems 2-3 years old. The Jokers just fit so damn well, that I want to make sure I'm not going to regret going with the Boreals once I get them on rock.

I have also climbed on Mad Rock, La Sportiva, and Five Ten rubber, but I'm by no means an expert on climbing shoe rubber. I have been pleased with the stickiness of the Mad Rock rubber, even though they are not very wear-resistant overall.


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By "Canada" Eric Ruljancich
From Tucson, AZ / Vancouver, BC
Mar 19, 2009
Mt Gimli, Valhallas, BC, Canada

If the shoe fits and you don't like the rubber just get it re-soled. I have an a pair of Boreal shoes I got a few years ago - the rubber wasn't very good at that point, but with different rubber on them they are kick ass.

I don't know about the new rubber, hopefully it is better, but if not you still will have shoes that fit great. A pair of shoes that fits well is worth it.


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By suprasoup
From Rio Rancho, NM
Mar 20, 2009
False Summit of the Thumb

I'm a Boreal man myself. I LOVE their shoes, mostly cause they fit my paddle feet well. Owned everything from the ninjas, pyros, diablos, zens you name it I've probably worn it. I've been at the butt end of pretty much every Boreal joke, snide comments of how crappy the rubber is. You know what? Didn't bother me cause my feet didn't hurt and it didn't stop me from Cranking V10s or Flashing 5.13s. Like Eric R mentioned, its far more important to have a shoe that fits you well. You'll be amazed how much better a climber you are when your feet don't hurt. FS Quattro Rubber isn't all that bad.


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By Mark Gibson
From Seattle, WA
Mar 24, 2009
The Business on Chain Reaction

I've climbed quite a bit and have found that Stealth rubber is by far the stickiest and most durable. Stealth is also the only company that actually tests the stickiness of their rubber, so if you are looking for hard numbers I'd refer you to the two most recent Five Ten catalogs. If you're looking for the best rubber, in my opinion, you will end up in a Five Ten shoe. But of course, Five Ten shoes do not fit every foot shape and you may find that none of their shoes really work for you. I haven't been terribly impressed with Quattro rubber compared with other rubbers out there. That's not to say that they won't stick to rock, it's just probably not as sticky or durable as other rubbers out there. My last piece of advice would be to find a shoe that fits your foot really well first, and then worry about the rubber second. You will climb better in a shoe that fits, than in one that doesn't but has marginally better rubber on it.

My Rubber Ranking
1. Stealth - stickiest and most durable (especially onyxx)
2. Vibram XS-Grip - sticky and fairly durable
3. Trax (Evolv) - pretty hard but still durable
4. Mad Rock Friction - NOT durable at all and hard

Quattro is somewhere in their with the Trax and Mad Rock rubber. Hope this has been helpful.


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By Count Chockula
From Littleton, CO
Mar 24, 2009
Count Chockula

Thanks for the replies everyone...much appreciated.


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By Phil Esra
Mar 2, 2013

Came across this old thread in a search. I've been climbing for a decade in various shoes. I recently bought a pair of used Boreal Kryptos at an rei gear sale. They appeared to be in almost new condition (and the fit is brilliant).

It''s entirely possible that the original owner stored these in an oven. But assuming they weren't abused, I am shocked how little grip these shoes have. If stealth c4, stealth mystique, mad rock, and la spotiva are tied with 10 points on an arbitrary scale, this FS Quattro stuff is around 7 or 8 at best. It's stunning. I've retired them to gym use only--I'll either give them away or get them prematurely resoled eventually, because it doesn't look like they're likely to ever wear out.


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