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Boreal Diabolo Shoes - Good shoe?
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By Chad Kline
Aug 29, 2013
Atop 'Ancient Art' in the Fishers Tower area of Utah

I'm in need of new shoes and was thinking about the Boreal Diabolo Shoes. I've never owned any Boreal shoes much less this model. I'm looking for a general all around shoe (bouldering, multi-pitch, gym, etc).

Thoughts?


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By doug rouse
From Denver, CO.
Aug 29, 2013

I had some Diablos a long while ago..I think maybe 1997 or so..Boreal's tend to fit a little wider than Sportiva's. The Diablo was not a high-end climbing shoe, but would suffice on mid-level stuff. I really liked Boreals Stingers, which came out after the Diablo's but I believe they're out of production. I would say to try Sportiva Mythos if you're interested in an all-around, wear all day shoe.The Diablos do not have a last under the foot, so they are a little bit flexi..But no real downturn either, so they won't perform like a Muira.


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By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Aug 29, 2013
...

From this Resolers viewpoint: Boreal = QUALITY!

From this climbers (Albeit a bit OLDER) viewpoint: Boreal shoes ROCK!



Diablos are a NICE shoe! I own a couple of pairs and am quite happy with them. (I much prefer ACES or Ballet Golds however)


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By jim.dangle
Aug 29, 2013

I have a pair of Boreals that are almost 20 years old and still going strong. They have been resoled once. They obviously haven't been used hard for 20 years straight but I use them occasionally for gyms and messing around. Quite a lot in the past few years actually. They need another resole but considering the age the uppers are in amazing shape.

I should probably take my own advice and check out a new pair.

Jim


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By Martin Bennett
From Manchester, UK
Oct 28, 2013

Hi. I think the previous posters are talking about the "old" Diabolo which were black with gold stitching. I had a pair and liked them a lot - very flexible and comfortable.
In 2012 Boreal used the name again on a completely different shoe, stiffer and with Velcro fastening, probably the one which, like me, you're considering.
I haven't tried them on yet but am thinking about doing so to compare with the La Sportiva Katana Velcro shoe for a compromise shoe - quite technical but will do for all day climbs as well.


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By Gunkiemike
Oct 28, 2013

doug rouse wrote:
The Diablos do not have a last under the foot, so they are a little bit flexi..But no real downturn either, so they won't perform like a Muira.


Another climber who doesn't know what "last" means as it pertains to shoe design.


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By Christina kalb
From Boulder, CO
Nov 8, 2013
The top of pitch 3 of Gambit

I have the women's version of the new Boreal Diabolo, the Diabola, and I absolutely love them. Many people say they are intermediate shoes. I prefer this because I find the "super advanced" shoes lack the sensitivity that I want (I like to feel every feature I'm standing on). For example, I also have a pair of Boreal Kintaros. While I do get slightly more edging power out of the Kintaro's, I can't feel the rock nearly as well, and so prefer the Diabola. You say you want an all around shoe. I'm not certain if the Diabolo would be the best as they have a slight downturn and are softer than you would want for cracks. For me, the Diabola is my goto sport shoe and I wear the Boreal Luna for crack climbing. The Luna is a bit stiffer with a flat last, and has a soft lining that provides some protection in cracks (less pain). So, if you want the combination of sensitivity and edging performance, get the Diabolo. If you don't care so much about sensitivity, then another shoe might work better.


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