Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | FRA Larry DeAngelo, John Wilder |
Page Views: | 818 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Orphaned User on Mar 31, 2005 |
Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc |
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Just to the right of Black Magic a broken face and crack system that ascends the right edge of the Lotta Balls wall. This route is two pitches long and joins up with Black Magic at the top of the 2nd pitch.
Pitch 1: Begin on the ground under the boulder right of Black Magic. Make one reachy move to gain the face to the right of the corner. Follow this broken face up and through a roof, eventually arriving at a stance where lots of gear options present themselves. 5.8, 150' Pitch 2: Continue up the cracks above, moving through one somewhat blankish section with good pro, then stepping right to the arete, moving through a small bulge. From here, trend up and left, aiming for the top of Black Magic's second pitch. Pitches 3&4: Finish as per Black Magic.
Pitch 1: Begin on the ground under the boulder right of Black Magic. Make one reachy move to gain the face to the right of the corner. Follow this broken face up and through a roof, eventually arriving at a stance where lots of gear options present themselves. 5.8, 150' Pitch 2: Continue up the cracks above, moving through one somewhat blankish section with good pro, then stepping right to the arete, moving through a small bulge. From here, trend up and left, aiming for the top of Black Magic's second pitch. Pitches 3&4: Finish as per Black Magic.
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