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Nancy's Rock
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Borachone 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Allen Simons
Page Views: 1,100
Submitted By: allen simons on Jun 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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CJ on Borachone.

Description 

5.5 miles west of the Beige Siphon Tube is a paved pullout on the north side of the road. Hike 30 yards up hill to the rock (Nancy's Rock). Start at the bottom of a large black section of rock and climb up easy rock to the bulge and first bolt. Up and left is 5.9, up and right is 5.6. Smear past two more bolts to the top.

Protection 

3 bolts to a two bolt anchor with Mussy hooks.


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By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Oct 1, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Gear of a #0.75, #4 BD wire, and #0.5 Camalot may be used to supplement the bolts.
By Dave Bn
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 16, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

One 5.7ish move at the first bolt. The climbing up to the first bolt is fun but difficult to protect on layered and flaky rock. I found a #3 Camalot a great home between the third bolt and the anchor.
By Hiro
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 29, 2015

Rotten rock at the bottom allows some gear protection but with questionable reliability.

I think I used a 0.4 or 0.5 at the bottom and similar towards the top. The top is easy enough, even without cams - I mainly put it in because I had it and don't like to skip gear opportunities even if it seems easy enough to run out.
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