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 ADVANCED
Cirque of the Uncrackables
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boogie 'til you Puke T 
Bop 'til You Drop T 
Cobra Crack T 
Ivan Meets GI Joe T 
March Of The Kitchen Utensils T 
Scimitar, The T 

Bop 'til You Drop 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Lane, Scott Flavelle 1981
Page Views: 1,593
Submitted By: Mike Teschke on May 24, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Bottom intimidating and flaring chimney.

Description 

This is a long burly corner crack, The corner fist crack above the lower flaring chimney is much longer than it looks. Right up there with the classic 5.10b climbs in Squamish. Don't underestimate this big boy... But it sure is a fun climb to do a few laps on once the rope is up!

Location 

To the right of Cobra Crack and Left of Boogie 'til You Puke.

Protection 

gear to 4-5" lots of #4 cams maybe a #5 in the chimney would be nice. a few smaller cams for the top and start. Chains at the top.


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By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Aug 16, 2012

Stellar route! Getting a bit dirty near the top but, at that point it's locker hands anyway. Just brush the spider webs and moss out of the way.

The business portion is the overhanging fists (bring a couple #4s and a single 5 if you want good pro for this). Once you are past that bust out that hand jams and enjoy a creek style splitter to the chains. Awesome route! Definitely not a giveaway 10b.
By Mark van Eijk
Apr 20, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Excellent! It's a shame it doesn't get climbed more, the top was a mess. We gave it a quick cleaning, but without traffic I doubt it will last. I thought it was harder than split beaver, but others in our group who are better at stemming felt the opposite. Styles make fights, I guess.

The start is hilarious jug-hauling into an alcove, great fun. The obvious wide section is indeed much longer and steeper than it looks from the ground. Great stems lead to a pod, where the feet dry up and the crack widens considerably beyond fists (or hand-fist stacking). Creative chimney moves get you through the crux, and then it's 60 feet of splitter hand crack to the anchors.

Protection is excellent throughout. A finger-size piece or two protects the opening moves. The fist crack goes mostly on #4s but will take one #5 right at the crux. The upper crack narrows from #3 to #0.75 camalots. Doubles in these sizes makes it comfortable.
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