Boots for both ice climbing and general summer mountaineering

Does such a boot exist? I am interested in trying out both disciplines, but would prefer not to splurge on 2 different boots as I don't plan to do these activities that many times in my life.

I took an intro to ice climbing class a few months ago and rented ice boots. However, my feet are tiny and the smallest boot they had was 1.5 sizes too big and my feet were swimming. It was pretty tiring on my legs, so I would like to purchase one pair of fitting boots avoid the same experience in the future.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

It'll be pushing it, but I supposed you "might" be able to pull it off as long as you aren't hitting the extreme weather days. I use the Scarpa Triolet for summer, and had the Charmoz before that. Found the sharmoz to actually be a little cold for snow. Lowa makes a pretty decent boot as well.

The crampons will be consideration as most crampons without the toe welt will be horizontals. You can use the red superfeet and gaiters to beef up the warmth.

Honestly though I'd use ebay and geartrade.com to try to round out your quiver. You can do it, but you'll either be walking in a hot heavy boot, or freezing your feet off. It will be fine for a while, but then you'll find the limitations of one boot.

I'm trying to do this with Scarpa Mont Blanc's but I only use full boots for alpine snow/ice in the summer. For other summer activities I break the exum guides or low cut merrell chameleons.

Yeah, I figured it would be difficult to balance the different temperature requirements. I wouldn't be trying to do these activities in a major storm.

One boot I am looking at is the Lowa Mountain Experts because they still have a toe welt. Not sure if that is stiff and warm enough for ice? I probably won't be doing anything real steep or hard ever. I could wear different socks to help deal with the temperature difference as well.

As for mountaineering destinations, I am aiming for Shasta and Rainer in the spring/summer. For my summer non-technical hikes, I just wear trail runners, maybe light hikers if it's very rocky.

Just for reference, I wear size 5 shoes. For boots, I may size it up to a 5.5. But in general, it is very difficult for me to find manufacturers that make technical shoes in my size, let alone finding people selling used in my size.

What do you mean by general summer mountaineering? Are you thinking alpine rock, snow and glacier routes or more technical climbing?

Traditional leather boots will probable work best as a single all-around boot. Something like La Sportiva Nepal, Scarpa Mont Blanc, etc. When I started all I had were the Mont Blancs and they did well with everything I threw at 'em.

Yes, by general summer mountaineering I mean alpine rock, snow and glacier routes.

What is more technical? Vertical ice or technical rock climbing?

mauhler31 wrote:Yes, by general summer mountaineering I mean alpine rock, snow and glacier routes. What is more technical? Vertical ice or technical rock climbing?

Gen mtn for me is stuff that is mostly walking, some step-kicking, gentle ice, easy rock. Say, stuff to 5.7 and WI4. This, the traditional leather boots handle easily.

By 'more technical' I would think of things like the big north faces, rock at 5.9+, mixed around M6 and ice of WI5 and over. Stuff that's long and would require rock shoes and technical ice tools. I'd hate to be dragging the heavy leather boots up routes like this!

sportiva.com/products/footw…
I have an older version of these. They ice climb great, and I've used them on summer glaciers and been very happy. They are good to about 10-15 degrees F. Any colder than that and my toes get cold belaying.

I just did some googling for your size shoe and man...most start at 6 with the Lowa's at 5.5 being the lowest of what I saw.

I always thought it was a pain having the most common shoe size of 10.5, but at least I have a zillion choices.

Honestly...you might just have to deal with whatever you can find.

I have a pair of size 6 women's la sportive leather boots (older model) that I am trying to sell. I wore them ice climbing for two years and they should work for mountaineering.
As I suggestion, I have found that I can often add a liner to boots or shoes to fill up some the space and make them fit better.

I am happy to send you pics. They are in great shape.

Where are you at? I am in SLC.

Thanks everyone for the input! It sounds like the general purpose leather mountaineering boots should suffice as long as I'm doing easier ice.

Scarpa Rebel Pros - they are ridiculously light, but warm enough for winter ice climbing.

I have Lowa mountain experts. I've used them about 2 years and have done WI5 ice mixed routes summer alpine and a winter ascent of rainier in them (feet were kinda cold on that one but not horrible)

I'd say good luck in your search ! I don't believe your going to find anything but compromises , if you have cold feet like I do then your pretty much going to have to go with two different boots or suffer on cold days . Every Insole I've ever tried does not do much to keep your feet warm when your wearing crampons and standing on ice all day in 30 deg or below weather . Idk what anyone says .

I did a hike up to longs and back in a pair of scarpa boots once , never ever again ! My feet hurt for weeks after that trip.

Scott's advice is sound ! I'd agree look for a cheap used summer boot they have the added benefit of already being broken in ! and spend good money on a good ice climbing boot !

I assume your "summer mountaineering" refers to technical snow travel. My friend has a pair of salewa pro gaitors that he uses in "walk mode" for mountaineering adventures, and "climb mode" for climbing. He seems to like them, but they can be difficult to change on the go. Try a pair on.

Check out the Kayland Apex xt if you can still find them- They have been great boots for me. I use them for just about anything but extreme cold- and they are light and comfortable with a good rocker sole for long hikes.

I have a pair of the Scarpa Rebel Ultras and they are amazing... super light for a full-blown ice boot and still great for alpine stuff like: Alps in summer, Can. Rockies, Patagonia etc. I wouldn't hesitate to take this boot anywhere short of super-cold environs. Good luck.

Ultimately you're going to have to accept a boot which is too warm on the hottest summer days, too cold on the coldest winter days, and perhaps too stiff for hiking; however, there are plenty of boots which would meet your needs:

Scarpa Rebel Pro/Rebel Ultra (hike really well, very light)
La Sportiva Trango Extreme
La Sportiva Nepal (perhaps too warm in summer)
Lowa Mountain Expert

Pick the ones that fit your feet, and match with a set of crampons.

I was looking for the same boot: first used the silver Trango and now the Rebel Pro. Only need a double boot for cold winter days now.

Thanks everyone for all the suggestions! I'll be sure to check them all out.

I'd like to ad that my suggestion to the lows mountain expert. My feet were barely cold at -20 constantly at 14k. But I do have warm feet