2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This excellent toprope or very serious lead is located on the pretty slab just to the left of the start of Jackson's Wall direct. The route follows a very tappered crack that runs horizontal for about ten feet and then heads straight up. While most toprope this pitch, it is an excellent route to headpoint and is a must do for anyone with a fondness for granite slabs. A word of advice though, get it wired before leading it.
This route was first led by local climber Chip ? and his partner. A brillant ascent. If you know the names of these brave lads please fix the ascent info. Thanks.
There are anchors at the top of the first pitch of Jackson's Wall Direct (aka South Face) for toproping. For leading there is only one piece of gear, a very suspect aid piece past the first crux.
First freed on lead by Skip Guerin and Chip Ruckgaber. There actually is a TCU placement to "protect" the crux, but it takes up a good undercling hold and makes the move a bit harder. Also, the story I've heard is when first led a hammer was used to fix gear (a pin and a head) that has since been removed. It would be easy enough to ask Chip if this is true. A better top rope.
Close To The Edge, the bolted line immediately to the left of this route, is rated a mere letter grade harder (12 a/b), but...in my humble opinion...is a whole 'nuther ball o' wax. I was able to toprope, sans falls (baaaarely), Boot Lead, but was completely shut down on Close To The Edge. Moving off the good feet into the blank section seemed essentially free from the burdens of any hand holds whatsoever...Very, very balancy stuff, both of these climbs, but at least Boot Lead has a hold or two here and there!
I enjoyed TRing Boot Lead very much - the lead would be thrilling enough to watch. I can't imagine the lead myself, with the undercling clogged with an alien.
Wear your stickiest rubber, and don't do it on a hot day... (I wonder if Skip did it barefoot ?!? ;-)
I agree, Close to the Edge is certainly much much harder than the Boot Lead. The stiff rating may reflect a bit of hesitation on part of the FA party to assign a harder grade, although if I recall the crux contains a severe leg-press move, something that the first ascentionist is particularly gifted at. Closer to .12d in my book. The 3rd clip is hard. Some climbers use a longer QD, pre-placed, to facilitate this clip.
Glad to hear the agreement re: Close To The Edge...it certainly felt like hard 12 to me...heck, it may as well have been 5.14. :-) If I remember correctly, the best hold on the route sits near the 2nd bolt, and the 3rd definitely seems like it would be the harder clip of the two...of course, I didn't lead it so... Also, the only fixed gear in Boot Lead now (again, if memory serves) is a fairly abused, small hex, well above the first (and harder) crux. Still, I'm sure its a welcome clip once there, for those bold enough to lead this route.