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The pretty splitter up high on the south face of the Mav, but you have to brave the awkward sandy start. A steep #2 friend section leads into a very weird move where you kind of dive into the chimney and start wriggling. After doing this move, the old Astroman topo which advises a "chicken-wing dyno" entry into the Harding Slot makes a bit more sense. Once in the chimney, easy climbing sets you up to exit onto the upper face and the ringlock and thin-hand madness. Don't stop...
The first route left of Gunsmoke which makes it the furthest right route on the south face of the mav.
Double set to #3 camalot with extra #.75 camalots and #2 friends.
Nov 25, 2009
Good route description. I did this route yesterday and didn't place anything bigger than a #1 Camalot and once over the roof, only .75 Camalots. It is possible to get down with one 60m rope.
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Jun 22, 2010
There's an amazing account of the FA of this thing over on Supertopo.com . The thread is called "Any Jimmy Dunn stories?" and the account is by Bob Palais, comment #61 on June 21. Pretty cryptic reason for the name of the climb.