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This route shares its first five bolts with 'Push' before diverging slightly right and heading through the hanging dihedral. The first five bolts of the route head through smooth white stone. Expect nice horizontal ledges, sloping crimps and a beach ball sized pod. This intro section is followed by a no hands rest on a giant ledge.
The second half of the route is a little steeper. Negotiate some long reaches between positive crimps to reach a large roof. Rest up at this point and then bring your lockoff strength for the technical crux. A redpoint crux awaits you in the dihedral. Grab the glue-merang hold, get aggro for a move or two, and then tech your way up the rest of the dihedral.
This is the first route you encounter when approaching the first buttress. Look for the large hueco around the third or fourth bolt.
11 bolts plus fixed biner anchor. A long sling on the first bolt in the hanging dihedral is a good idea.
|By Blake Cash|
Nov 1, 2012
Thought this route was cool until I realized you could climb the jug filled crack 2 feet to the right of the bolt line the whole way up. The moves to the left of the crack are cool...but the route is indeed an eliminate this way.