Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
First Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Andoullie S 
Ben Dunne T 
Black Crack T 
Boomerang S 
Corner Pocket S 
Creature S 
Cross Eyed and Blind S 
Eye of Mordor S 
Floaters S 
Lady Punk S 
Lamda S 
Push S 
Sausage S 
Superman S 
Toymaker S 
Typical Situation S 
Vignette S 
West Virginia Two-Step S 

Boomerang 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Mark Stevenson
Page Views: 768
Submitted By: ---- on Mar 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Fred Gomez

Description 

This route shares its first five bolts with 'Push' before diverging slightly right and heading through the hanging dihedral. The first five bolts of the route head through smooth white stone. Expect nice horizontal ledges, sloping crimps and a beach ball sized pod. This intro section is followed by a no hands rest on a giant ledge.

The second half of the route is a little steeper. Negotiate some long reaches between positive crimps to reach a large roof. Rest up at this point and then bring your lockoff strength for the technical crux. A redpoint crux awaits you in the dihedral. Grab the glue-merang hold, get aggro for a move or two, and then tech your way up the rest of the dihedral.

Don't cheat yourself out by climbing up the juggy crack to the right of the bolts.

Location 

This is the first route you encounter when approaching the first buttress. Look for the large hueco around the third or fourth bolt.

Protection 

11 bolts plus fixed biner anchor. A long sling on the first bolt in the hanging dihedral is a good idea and stick clip the second bolt.


Comments on Boomerang Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -