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Book of Spells 
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Book of Spells 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jonathan Siegrist
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 921
Submitted By: Jonathan Siegrist on Sep 6, 2009
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Enter the Book of Spells, it might be frightful.

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To the right side of 'Cloak and Dagger', there is a series of clean, parallel cracks that wave their way to the top of the crag. Book of Spells takes an obvious leftmost line, utilizing gear placement opportunities while remaining on the best quality rock. Aside from the first 20 feet (loose, somewhat poor stone - demoting the climb to 2-star status), the whole route is bullet rock. Very cool and unique movement takes you through the first roof encounter, while a wildly overhung wall with surprisingly big holds awaits above.


Glide up the parallel crack system to the right of 'Cloak and Dagger' to the left of the lichen.


Great pro exists mostly all over the climb, but sometimes requires a bit of fiddling. Rack up to 1 inch with doubles in the small pieces. Be careful at the bottom - a leader fall could result in a team slab plummet. There are anchors installed on Book of Spells.

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Jonathan Siegrist fiddling in gear while reading the Book of Spells.
Jonathan Siegrist fiddling in gear while reading t...
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By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Sep 7, 2009

Given how many features there are over here, and the seemingly widespread availability of gear, surely some easier (or maybe harder) climbing exists.. have at it! Basically I installed chains at the top, and I tried to choose the cleanest, most interesting looking line to get to them. Felt like easy 12 to me. Enjoy!