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Church Bowl
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Book of Revelation 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Gordon Webster, Chuck Ostin, 10/1965 FFA: Bob Finn, Chris Falkenstein, 1974
Page Views: 1,173
Submitted By: caughtinside on Feb 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: A look at the good quality of pitch three and the ...

Description 

This is the right leaning crack, that is 40' left of Church Bowl Tree. Crux is pulling a blocky bulge 12' off the ground, and getting established in the crack on awkward tight hands with poor feet. Continue up the crack, which gets easier. You'll get to an old fixed pin, which is easily backed up, then you get a fun and thrilling airy traverse right, great feet on a dike, but no hands. balancy! At the end of the traverse, you'll hit a vertical crack with great fingerlocks in pin scars, then a final easy traverse right to a small slung tree. Rap off.

This route continues up a few more pitches at a guidebook .11a, but I haven't done them.

Location 

40' left of Church Bowl Tree, obvious 45 degree right slanting crack/book.

Protection 

Gear to 2". Offset gear very helpful in pin scars, I used the two larger hybrid aliens on this climb.


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By Colby Wayment
From: Ogden, UT
Jul 20, 2010

I'm pretty sure there is a second pitch (at least) to this, above the tree, and it goes at 5.11-. Haven't climbed that second pitch, but it looks thin.
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 13, 2010

I only climbed the first pitch of this route on September 11th of 2010, and I didn't notice a fixed piton. I'm pretty sure it's gone. The bottom crux is pretty awkward, but the rest of the pitch climbs quite well, and takes good gear to boot. In my opinion, there are tons of good rests between the crux and the top. Just make sure your calves are in shape...
By Bryan G
From: San Jose
Jan 15, 2012

The second pitch is alright, but not as good as the first. It's got some cool moves switching cracks and then some finger-jamming after that. It gets dirtier after the first set of anchor bolts about 45 ft up.