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Book Of Friends T 
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Book Of Friends 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Scott Baxter and John Gault
Season: Spring or Fall best.
Page Views: 2,674
Submitted By: Orphaned on Mar 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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the first crux

Description 

Book of Friends is a full on old school burl-fest type of a route. Lots of physical crack climbing on an incredible formation. Very cool!

P1) Climb corner that moves up and curls left at the top with the crux at the end. Belay in an alcove off wide cams. (5.10a)

P2) Climb up and out an overhanging corner on hands to where you do wide hands and fists out the left side to a belay in a tight constriction. (5.10c)

Pitch 3) Climb up the "Baxter 5.8" chimney above. This will feel harder than most other 5.8's since it's more like 5.9. Pull over a chockstone and then continue up. Straight up is supposed to be like 5.10, out left is unprotected 5.8 chimney. I had to go down here because the snow was getting the rock all wet.

Location 

Book of Friends is approached from a pulloff near the old fish hatchery about 1/3rd to 1/2 way up the canyon. I'll have to check my notes for mileage. You can see the Book of Friends formation up on the north side of the canyon.

Appraoch by walking on the road towards where the hatchery was, then crossing the creek to the right. Get into a big gully, then up, up, up, with a bit of nosing around to get to the right formation. First pitch is a right-facing book with a nice-looking crack in it.

Protection 

Solid rack of nuts/tri-cams and cams from 1/2" up to #4.5 Camalot.


Photos of Book Of Friends Slideshow Add Photo
Willie C. on P. 1 BOF
Willie C. on P. 1 BOF
First Pitch Book O' Friends
First Pitch Book O' Friends
Looking down from the top of pitch 2
Looking down from the top of pitch 2
trihedral section up to the pillar
trihedral section up to the pillar
Willie C. squirmin his way up p. 3
Willie C. squirmin his way up p. 3
book of friends
BETA PHOTO: book of friends
Fabulous finish on pitch one.
Fabulous finish on pitch one.
the business
the business
Jeff K cruising up the corner after the roof.
Jeff K cruising up the corner after the roof.
final chimney section
final chimney section

Comments on Book Of Friends Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 15, 2013
By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 29, 2006
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

This is a great route, however it is very physically demanding. When I climbed it we took a double set of cams with one 4.5 camalot and one 5 camalot. This was very sufficient.

When I climbed the route we made our second belay on top of the chockstone that Greg describes. (Where he ended his adventure due to wet rock.) From here you are faced with two options - 1. The right hand variation is 5.10 and looks like thin hands. 2. The second variation is a 5.7+ to 5.8- chimney. Most of this pitch can be protected with #4 to #5 camalots being walked up the crack in the back of the chimney.

Other beta would be to wear long pants and to tape up. I don't think that I had any skin left on my hands after climbing this route...
By markguycan
From: flagstaff, AZ
May 9, 2006

rap the route using 2 ropes. there is a two bolt anchor w/ webbing (probably needs replacing)and a quick link on top; and another anchor w/ chains above the cruxy 2nd pitch.
By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 25, 2006
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Mark,

When Jon and I climbed this thing several years go it was not possible to rap the route. Has something changed?

Jon and I topped out in the dark and had to tie our ropes together and do one long single line rap back to the deck. Burcham told me that there are rap anchors, but we never saw them... Do you have new Beta?!? I want to go down this summer and repeat the route.

Will
By Flex
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 19, 2007

Great summer route with an early start-perfect temps in the shade.

There are bolts/chains at the top of pitch 2 and bolts/webbing at the top of the route, however the Burcham rap route follows 2 sets of bolt anchors down to the climbers right from the top. Bring 2 ropes for the raps.

A classic route with good, well protected climbing on the crux.
By Larry Coats
Oct 28, 2007

First ascent Scott Baxter and John Gault.
By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 30, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Just climbed this route again with Dean today and it is still awesome. Two sets of cams to #4 Camalot plus a 4.5 and a 5 was great.

A bit of descent beta -

Rapping the route seemed pretty straight forward, but we took the Burcham raps down. These bolts as mentioned above are on the climber's right and sort of behind the route. A full 190' rap into a corridor brings you to two bolts with biners set in a chimney back behind you. As you near the end of your ropes start looking back and the anchor will be easily visible. Then rap down and out of the corridor. Walk about 30 seconds back to your packs.
By Dean Hoffman
Aug 13, 2008

Had a blast climbing this with Will, anyone know of a route climbing the opposite side, visible from the rapps Will describes?
By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 15, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Did this route with Roman on 5/14 - Awesome! The whole thing is all old school burliness, even the 5.8 start and finish. The "5.7+" final pitch chimney was harder than anything on epinephrine I thought, which would make it 5.9+ in Red Rocks. Or 5.7 in Yosemite.

We ended up doing it in 4 pitches:
1) Up all the way into the alcove right before the crux bulge (~120ft)
2) Over the bulge to the chains (~20 ft)
3) Up the "trihedral" (fun!) to the top of the pillar (80 ft?)
4) Up the chimney to the top (80 ft?)

If I was doing it again, I would recommend not belaying at the chains and going from the alcove below the crux to the top of the pillar in the trihedral.

We rapped the route with 2 ropes. in terms of pro, we brought the kitchen sink - 2 new #4s 1 old #4, 2 new #5s, 1 old #5. Next time I'd leave the big guy. It was nice but not necessary to have the 2 new #5s.

park at the pullout right off the road to cave springs campground

P.S. What is the crazy looking right leaning overhanging crack across the canyon with the fixed ropes? Looks wild!
By Petair
Jun 25, 2011

Does anyone know what happened to the rap anchors going down the left face of this route? I remember them being there the last time I did this climb a couple years ago. Is the rap down the back side the original way down? Just curious...
By Zack S.
From: Prescott, AZ
Feb 29, 2012

As of today, no bolts or chains anywhere on the route (and no need for them). Can't speak to the presence of a bolted rap route except to say that we didn't see it.
By jayci
From: Flagstaff
Mar 1, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This route is about as good as it gets if you ask me. If only this corner went on for 1000'. Someone has indeed removed the rap anchor. Zack and I rapped off a really bad dead tree into a bush filled gully and then off a terrible piece of tat on a bolt. This climb is worth a good safe rap line!
By Paul Davidson
Sep 7, 2012

The original descent was to walk west & south and down to a gully that had a chockstone in it. Pretty simple, fast and straightforward as I recall. It seems like it was one longer rap, bit of a walk and then maybe a short bit and you were down. I think it drops you right into the Dr.'s Office. So, if you get stuck without anchors, keep it in mind.
By JimmyK
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 11, 2012

Descent Beta: We climbed it on 10/8/12. Will Cobb's 7/30/08 posting is right on. There are rap anchors as described. Upon reaching the top of P3, scramble up and right, a short distance to the summit. The anchors are located at the top, backside of the summit on the north side (climber's right) of the rock formation.
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Dont do this with only 2 # 4 C4s. If so i would call it R rated! Bring a god damn #5! Also we forgot our second rope and with some trickery you can get to the ground.
Old school burl-fest! 5.10++++
By Tony Montana
From: Wilmer, BC
Feb 3, 2013

Who is John Gault?
By Ryan Z
Mar 3, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

The climb was good and the approach was a piece of cake. Belayed off of nuts and a small cam at the top of P1, then we linked the last 2 pitches. The last pitch is a bit runout but I didn't think it was any harder than 5.8. The rap is right off the backside, we brought 2 ropes and it was straightforward.
By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 25, 2013

Until I have led it or sent it (I have done neither), I can't say nothin'... But if you are sending some 10's and 10+'s at forks and waterfall, that don't mean jack here. Sandbag.

Stellar tho. I'll be bringin' the kitchen sink, as per Tyler, above. And yeah no more chains/easy retreat from top of p2. Kinda coulda used that....
By Paul Davidson
Jul 15, 2013

The difficulty of the climb is greatly affected by the direction you face in the crux pitch. (like most wide cracks...)