Book of Dissent  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.10a [details] FA:  Greg Lowe, 1965 Submitted By:  david goldstein on Aug 28, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Dougald MacDonald at the crux.

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Description 

AKA: Crack of Dung.

This is a worthwhile pitch. I gave it a low grade because of the guano and because the neighboring climbs are so much better.

Start in the next crack system right of Crack of Doom, below a thin crack in a corner/groove which becomes a chimney.

To start either traverse in from the left (easier) or go straight up to access the crack, the first 20' of which are the surprisingly hard crux. Above that, continue with chimneying. After the crack ends, diagonal left for the COD anchors. Note: there is a rap anchor after about 10M; consider yourself a lowly piker if you employ this.

Protection 

Lots of small stuff, RPs to small cams. There is a vintage (first ascent?) pin near the top of the chimney which you will probably have to excavate from dung to clip.

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Dougald chimneying

Dissenting times.