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Morning Glory Spire
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Book of Dissent T 
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Crack of Doom T 
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Book of Dissent 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Greg Lowe, 1965
Page Views: 1,007
Submitted By: david goldstein on Aug 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Dissenting times.

Description 

AKA: Crack of Dung.

This is a worthwhile pitch. I gave it a low grade because of the guano and because the neighboring climbs are so much better.

Start in the next crack system right of Crack of Doom, below a thin crack in a corner/groove which becomes a chimney.

To start either traverse in from the left (easier) or go straight up to access the crack, the first 20' of which are the surprisingly hard crux. Above that, continue with chimneying. After the crack ends, diagonal left for the COD anchors. Note: there is a rap anchor after about 10M; consider yourself a lowly piker if you employ this.


Protection 

Lots of small stuff, RPs to small cams. There is a vintage (first ascent?) pin near the top of the chimney which you will probably have to excavate from dung to clip.



Photos of Book of Dissent Slideshow Add Photo
Dougald MacDonald at the crux.
Dougald MacDonald at the crux.
Dougald chimneying
Dougald chimneying
Chimney sweetness. Took out the Singer and sewed up that crack
Chimney sweetness. Took out the Singer and sewed u...
O-face on C of D
O-face on C of D
Crack of Dung goodness
Crack of Dung goodness
Chimney
Chimney
Comments on Book of Dissent Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 1, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Crumbly at the start, slick at the bottom, shitty at 1/3 of the way (as in poop) and then EZ chimneying. What's not to love?

By Ben Folsom
Sep 15, 2010

A great route with a nice section of fingers, (then poop, but easily avoidable.) The chimney is super fun. Bring small nuts.

By K Baumgartner
Jun 27, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a must do 10, which is WAYYYY harder than Bloody Fingers of the same grade. Belayed from chains to the right near the top of the climb after the 7 foot hand crack section.