Book of Dissent
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Dougald MacDonald at the crux.
AKA: Crack of Dung.
This is a worthwhile pitch. I gave it a low grade because of the guano and because the neighboring climbs are so much better.
Start in the next crack system right of Crack of Doom, below a thin crack in a corner/groove which becomes a chimney.
To start either traverse in from the left (easier) or go straight up to access the crack, the first 20' of which are the surprisingly hard crux. Above that, continue with chimneying. After the crack ends, diagonal left for the COD anchors. Note: there is a rap anchor after about 10M; consider yourself a lowly piker if you employ this.
Lots of small stuff, RPs to small cams. There is a vintage (first ascent?) pin near the top of the chimney which you will probably have to excavate from dung to clip.
|Comments on Book of Dissent
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 1, 2007
Crumbly at the start, slick at the bottom, shitty at 1/3 of the way (as in poop) and then EZ chimneying. What's not to love?
|By Ben Folsom|
Sep 15, 2010
A great route with a nice section of fingers, (then poop, but easily avoidable.) The chimney is super fun. Bring small nuts.