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BETA PHOTO: At the anchor, showing the route.
This may be the easiest route, at 10d, at the crag. The first bolt is a little high but not too hard to clip. The crux comes at about the third bolt, and the climbing is made easier by stemming in this section. This would not be a good lead for novices whether they climb the grade or not.
This is in a left-facing dihedral at about the center of the crag. It is just to the right of a big tree in front of the crag. You descend from a two bolt anchor at the top.
4 bolts to a two bolt anchor.