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the whole thing is crux; somewhat sustained 5.9 chimney work with spicy start and finish moves. stellar, tall, big view, spacious summit. very well protected. clean. shade. best to belay inside chimney. a little loose ground outside. the cam is optional but nice. a #2 camalot would be tipped out and the #3 that i had was tight. a 3 1/2 friend would be perfect. fairly wild climb. SIC FUN! Note: there's a nice crack in the back of the chimney (on raptor) that, as of now, is up for grabs. Note #2. a word on the rating. were gona need a consensus. in the end we went with 10-. i'd rather it be an easy 10- than a sandbag 5.9. we don't think the moves are harder than 5.9, but there's a bunch of em and we were tired. also; technically the FFA is still up for grabs. cleanest ascent we got was on the follow (ie; TR). in any case; this is an excellent chimney!!!
easy to find. raptor is the very obvious large tower on the left side, about 20 minutes up the canyon. Boognish is located at the left toe. climb the big obvious chimney on the right side of the tower. one rap with a single 70m from bolt anchors gets you down.
15 quickdraws and one #3 1/2 friend
taylor, firen up
from left to right; Boognish, Raptor, bo...
drake, about 1/2 way
lookin up route
thats a rap
inside the chim chim
taylor, about 1/2 way down
|By paul bucher|
From: moab, utah
Jun 29, 2013
UPDATE: looks like karl kelly's boy and his girlfriend got the FFA. he said not 5.9. karl and his wife went and got on it. he agreed with his boy. he felt it is more like 10 b/c but also added that it was hot (108*), he was tired and this is not his main style of climbing. we have yet to get back there but i trust karl's experience and judgement on the matter. EXPECT MID 5.10 CLIMBING. our mantra remains; rather not sandbag people.
|By Peter Blank|
From: Grand Junction, Colorado
Oct 16, 2013
Thank you Paul! Very excellent. Your effort much appreciated!
|By Andrew Gram|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 16, 2013
Cool! I've thought about doing this thing for years - glad someone got it done. It is an amazing feature.