Pull the opening boulder problem of Middle Road and traverse right a few feet past good gear. Pull the steep roof past 2 bolts and a pin to a jug and gear. Finish on jugs to the anchor. Pumpy for its height. Perfect rock and fun movement.
North End. The guide mentions that the original start traversed in from Vascular Disaster, which is true. There used to be a fixed stopper to protect this but it is gone now. It also mentions some "unprotected" starts. Everyone I know starts on Middle Road. This way is very well protected, fun, and consistent with the difficulty of the climb. I'd recommend this option.
3 bolts and an old pin (that most people skip). Good gear after the opening boulder problem and between the last bolt and anchor. The anchor is a fixed hex that wiggles and I think a fixed stopper. It seems fine but I'd back it up with a small cam if you plan on TR.
Alex at the roof
Robert making the final move of the crux
On the jug after the initial boulder problem
Robert Fogle on Boogie
Robert Fogle pulling the roof
Alex Rollins pitching off the crux
|By porter jarrard|
Mar 18, 2009
I did a direct direct start directly below the crux, pulling a low roof and following a seam. Ends up on the jug right of the Middle Road start/traverse-in. This version was protected by traversing in from VD and clipping the first good gear on BTYP. I think I may have lead that start out of boredom at some point, as well, for an R/X variant...the most direct line.