Boogaloo Direct 5.9
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BETA PHOTO: Boogaloo Direct follows the dark water streak in t...
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Description This face route is left of Wedunett, and starts up a bulge using an incipient vertical seam. Moving through this is the crux. One bolt protects this section with two other bolts leading through some easier terrain. May be a bit runout for Big Rock. Belay/rap on one of a couple of bolted belays. From there one can continue up one of four second pitches.
Protection 3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap
| Comments on Boogaloo Direct |
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By Jordan K Oct 8, 2006
| this is a bolted sport climb, not trad |
By Phil From: San Diego, CA Oct 16, 2006 rating: 5.9
| Agreed. This is a sport route. |
By Jordan Ramey From: Calgary, Alberta Mar 10, 2007
| Three bolts. Somewhat runout, but on easy climbing sections. Can cheat over and clip bolts on whodunnit or the climb left of it. |
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO Apr 30, 2007
| The original line climbs through the dish to the right and goes at 5.8, moving back to the left above the dish to rejoin the bolt line. Direct is a more aesthetic line with a very nice crux to the left of the dish. If you use the anchor up to the left (the start of Let it Bleed) a 60m will not reach the "ground" for rappel. But with rope stretch, makes it to the lower part of the 3rd/4th class slab. |
By Matt Marino From: Georgetown, MA May 10, 2010
| As you approach the anchor you'll be run out about 30ft from you're last bolt. The second bolt is about 50 feet up so you shouldn't deck but it could be a nasty fall/slide (hence the R rating). If you want to manage the risk you can traverse over and borrow a both from Wedunett about halfway between the anchor and the second bolt or if you brought some pro you can slot a nut in the crack that's down and left of the anchor. |
By kennoyce From: Clearfield, UT Jul 17, 2011 rating: 5.9
| Looks like Phil and Jordan K don't know the definition of trad and sport. This is a trad route even though it is bolted. |
By gordon broomhall From: oceanside Jul 28, 2011
| I agree with kennoyce, boogaloo direct was put up before the term 'sport climbing' was invented . if you can get a no-hands rest and drill a bolt on lead, like the first ascensionist did , it aint sport . IMHO in Phil and jordans defense, Nowadays, everything that is bolted is referred to as sport . I have this argument with youngsters all the time. trad refers to the ethics in which the protection was placed, not the choice of gear . Trad=ground up . Sport=top down . I believe an example could be found where are a nut or fixed piece was placed on rapel to protect a severely overhanging 5.13 climb. we would call that a sport climb. english hanging gardens is the only sport climb I know of at big rock. |
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