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Robert making the squeeze at the top of the third ...
Pitch 1: Climb up the crack in a right-facing dihedral to a two bolt anchor. The crux is low, but this stays pretty consistent 5.10 for most of the pitch. The dihedral leans right, so your feet are rarely in the crack if ever. One bolt down low but protects with gear the rest of the way.
Pitch 2: Continue up the dihedral on the left to a ledge then traverse the ledge left to the corner and head up to another ledge and a two bolt anchor. The rock quality in the corner was pretty bad so I place a few bolts for pro.
Pitch 3: Head up the chimney to the right with thin pro, mostly .4 and smaller cams. Fun .10+ move through the overhanging blocks then it eases up again. The top of the pitch turns into a squeeze that Robert fit through but I didnít, for those of us that are a little bigger you can continue up and over but itís a bit more airy.
Pitch 4: Climb up the crack in the left facing dihedral to a two bolt anchor. This is the crux pitch and probably the best pitch of the climb.
Pitch 5: This pitch has two options, on the right is a crack that is a little harder (5.10ish) but has better pro and on the left is a 5.8ish corner with some pro. Either way you go you want to head up the small chimney on the left to top out and donít follow the crack on the right to a large and loose block. Anchor on the big tree at the top.
Descent: Hike west (left) to a big drainage that takes you back down then follow the cliff back to the base of the climb.
Follow the cliff 20 yards left of the Eclipse Route
. The route starts in a flared-ish crack to a smallish ledge that leads up to a corner with a crack in it, 15 feet left of a big, downed tree you have to climb over.
Standard trad rack plus some small cams (0.4 and smaller) for the 3rd pitch, a couple of tricams would be useful down low. A couple of Big bros would make the top of the third pitch more comfortable.
BETA PHOTO: The fourth pitch.
Mickey in the P3 chimney.
BETA PHOTO: The descent route.
BETA PHOTO: Red - pitch 1. Yellow - pitch 2. Green - pitch 3. ...
BETA PHOTO: The third pitch.
Topping out on P5 -- great jams and stemming.
By Fritz N.
From: Durango, CO
May 24, 2014
Enjoyable route with fun movement and good gear. Plenty of great moments throughout, but the fourth pitch especially is sustained and beautiful.