Boobalicious 5.9+
| 391 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10 [details] |
| FA: | Pablo Paster, 2/15/04 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Pablo Paster on Feb 15, 2004 |
| |
BETA PHOTO: Park Ridge Rock from approach trail.
Add Photo  Printer View
Description Boobalicious follows the humpy arete to the left of Crespi Criter. There is a funky move around one of the lower humps and holds are sparse and tiny. There is a variation that goes to the right a bit at the first hump and follows the face between Boobalicious and Crespi Critter, the working name is "Fond Mammaries" (5.10a, Kevin Knight, 2/15/04).
Protection There is a good anchor at the top of the route (The "The Slot" anchor) as well as a new anchor at the top (The anchor for Crespi Critter). Trad leading is not recommended for lack of placements.
BETA PHOTO: Boobalicious
|
It's a hard slap to top out the boob. Tom Hall get...
| |
By Stephen Pratt
From: Goleta, CA
Mar 27, 2004
rating: 5.9+
| This was a pretty cool route. Trickier than I thought. I love the name. |
By vincent L.
Feb 17, 2008
| The route pictured here is not 5.9+. It doesn't really help anyone to sandbag it. It is bolted for lead now with three solid bolts. It's very safe and in my opinion it goes at at least 10b .
It is a very worthwhile route on flawless white rock. |
By Matthew Geyer
From: Morro Bay
Oct 30, 2008
| This is a 3-bolt sport route that is fairly vertical and is a good, safe route to fall on for those looking to try leading a stiff .10 |
By John Knight
Aug 2, 2011
rating: 5.10c
| HISTORICAL NOTE - I climbed with Kevin Knight (no relation) and Pablo Paster back in 2004 when they thought they did the top rope FA of this route (and posted it on Mt. Project). This was previously top roped and called Lumpy Lumps but was "re-named" on Mt. Project by Kevin & Pablo in 2005.
Regarding the grade, I think this route is closer to 5.10c than it is to 5.9. I usually don't struggle with 5.10b much less 5.9 and I had a hard time with it. There is an interesting posting on RockClimbing.com from someone that claims to have put in the bolts in Sept. 2005 and done the first (free) ascent and rated it 5.10d. They called it "Fear and Loathing".
Unless I hear claims to the contrary, I am saying it's 5.10c. As for the name, I'm fond of Boobalicious. It just sounds way better than Lumpy Lumps or Fear and Loathing.
john |
|
RSS Feed
more...
Slideshow
