Bonnie and Clyde 

Lee man nice work, I had looked at this line and was actuallly thinking about doing it next time I was there with gear, now I know what it is and will certainly get on it. Nice work man :)

thanks guys, beneith all the filth there really is a very nice climb. I've been looking at it for years but it was always wet or i didn't have a willing partner. i will clean it soon and then i will recommend getting on it for sure.

As for gear, i'd call it PG for someone who knows gear craft. i used a small nut and a hard to place nut mixed in with some straight forward solid cams... have fun!

Definitely scrub it up, Lee. Once I scrubbed Anchovy it stayed a lot drier than I expected. I started working on that line, but switched over to the Caper. Glad somebody did it. It is not so long, but nice rock.

I figured it might stay dryer if it was clean... thats good to know... thanks...

The only part of Anchovy Caper that can be wet/damp on dry days is near the top, after the last bolt, and below a mossy section. I believe this route probably crosses into A.Caper around here so bear this in mind, Lee.
Thanks for the info and work!

What lee no pictures,I have to see how dirty she is.

Joshua's right. Dirty pix or it didn't happen!

Ill take some before and after pics when i clean it haha...

and the two routes dont share any climbing the way i did it, as of now they only share the walk up to the anchor...

I cleaned the hell out of this thing today... almost 3 hours of scrubbing... I really hope that after all that work i put in someone wants to climb it... It really is fun, the crux off the ground might be 5.9ish but ill keep the grade as is for now... tell me what you think...

If someone with the skills wanted to bolt it id be fine with that... otherwise i might eventually bolt it but not in the near future...

I led this earlier today with Jared and thought it was ok. I didn't find the bottom climbing to be 5.9; it felt a little easier than that. Stemming up and heading up the crack halfway was pretty fun. I had a little trouble with some of the pro (then again, I'm a newbie). I think this would definitely see more traffic if it had 3 or 4 bolts and its own anchors. I'm sure it would confuse people looking in the "new" guidebook... but with a little bit of time, the walking guidebooks will be updated. :)

Thanks for the cleaning! If you end up bolting this, I'll brush it off a tad more.

yeah... it should be bolted... i will have to do that...

I bolted this route so people can enjoy it without having to lug the trad stuff along... climb it, its pretty darn fun!
i do need to clean the top but its good the way it is...

This climb is much fun and very similair to its neighbor ti the left, Anchovy Caper, that is a fun and thoughtful crux right off the ground to some mellow climbing and one section of a little more thought provoking climbing at the top.

Just before the anchors on the left is one of the coolest holds, its like a baseball size knob, very different style hold for Rumney.

Once again Lee good find and thank you for putting the time and effort into preparing this climb for the rest of us to enjoy!

Thanks, really glad you like it Matt!
and i agree about that hold at the top, so cool! im glad i dug it out of the dirt :)

This is probably just because my beta was horribly wrong, but this felt waaaay harder than 5.8. I probably spent 25-30 minutes just trying to get to the 1st bolt without pulling on the rope. The first 3 or 4 moves each felt harder than the crux of fish corner (5.10b). Past the start though, it's a great climb up the flake! When lowering, watch your rope so it dosen't get stuck in the chip in the bulge.

J, the first few moves are really tough without crack technique. I don't have any crack technique so it's pretty hard for me too :). Great climb though.

By "crack technique", do you mean using the hand jam at the start? I thought that was probably an important hold, but I couldn't reach anything else from there, so I ended up just powering through it.

Yeah, the hand jam. I'm just not too good at it yet and then even if you stick it the next few moves are a little tricky. I have yet to get the opening move without stick clipping the first bolt because I get a little shaken because I have awkwardly rolled down that hill before after falling, haha.

i promise that with the right beta its no harder than 5.8+ (even if you aren't a crack master)... i feel like i should take video of my beta as a public service haha... glad you got on it though :)

yeah man, i must be missing something, i got it sometime early last year but have a terrible memory when it comes to beta :)

Yeah, Lee, I think a video would be a great idea, especially because keeping the start at 5.8 sounds pretty beta intensive. I'd definintely want to try this thing again with the right beta sometime

I am with Lee on this, 5.8 seems about right. I would be willing to call it 5.8+ but it is not as hard as Yoda or any other 5.9's in the area. Fun climb though for sure!

It's definitely beta-intensive then because Yoda feels way easier to me, haha.

I looked at it on my way by today... the bottom is not dirty at all the last 8 feet has grown back some moss... the dryer season and some traffic will take care of it or someone can brush it... i will if i climb it soon...
also for those who find it hard, here is my beta after bouldering it a little to refresh.... spoiler alert... right hand jam, left hand palm on the left wall, walk feet up high on the right, kick left foot out and stem, work left hand along a corner feature, another foot move or two and you can reach good hands... nothing super secret but more familiar maybe to trad climbers...

Hey, and what happened with Miss Hallet? We don't see "pictures of Lily" anymore :( Does she still climb, or gone on to conquer the world? I was hoping you would bring her or other muses out to Green's when you come so you'd get pictures of her on the routes, then people would come out and climb them. Having a girl on a route seems to add two stars.

as for the first comment... yeah this is all forum material but i dont know how to move it all...

as for lily... she moved to Canada and is happily married, training hard, and will someday conquer the world... i miss her and cant wait to get more photos of her working her magic... ill post em when i get em :)

Married? Wow! I just remember meeting her when she must have been about 16 or something in dreadlocks. Congratulations are in order then :)
In the edit dropdown, Lee, there is a "move comment to forum" option.
I moved some of the comments to www.mountainproject.com/v/rumney-new-routing-issue-discussio>>>
-One Tip: when you pick the forum, then make a heading for it, place a "1" in front so it is easy to find until you have moved all the comments you want, then edit the first one to remove the "1".

oh cool thanks for the tip :)

I climbed this yesterday. I thought it climbed really well, well worth another day scrubbing to make it spic and span. Cleaned and I think people would be all over it. It is just not so appealing looking all green. I started brushing the start a little while waiting for a belay.(Anchovy could use a brushing of the sand that has flown down too.) Stemming and laybacking should get you up at the grade. I used one easy hand jam near the bottom.

here is a quick video of the route since there has been much discussion about the beta and the grade...