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A short approach, southern exposure, a stunning landscape and an abundance of easy to moderate routes... it is no mystery why this is one of the more popular crags in central Switzerland.
Melchsee-Frutt, where the crag is located, is a wonderfully humble village / ski resort situated high above the Melchtal valley.
In the village, there are numerous hotels with restaurants, as well as a small convenience store with all the indispensable items for a day on the rocks (i.e., beer, sausage, cheese, and of course butter, for those with a true appreciation for the crown jewel of Swiss dairy products).
The crag is a single band of rock that extends for several kilometers. The rock is a high-quality limestone, with distinct horizontal "layers." As a result, the routes are not always sustained, but particularly in the steeper sections where the upper layers protrude outwards, it can make for some extraordinary and airy climbing.
The routes are well-protected, primarily single pitch affairs. Most of the routes are between 3-6b (french). There are only a handful of harder routes. At the base of each route, there is a sign with the name, grade and length. It doesn't get much more user-friendly than this.
Tip: On sunny winter days, you can climb here in a t-shirt and take in the views of the ski resort. As icing on the cake, you can ski or sled back down to your car in the evening!
Info, topo and local weather conditions at: melchsee-frutt.com
Melchtal is a relatively quiet valley very close to Lucerne, and is accessible by public transport (bus) or car.
In the summer, the Melchsee-Frutt resort is accessible from the valley by car, via a windy, single-lane road that takes off from the valley floor at the end of the proper two-lane street. In both the summer and winter, the area can also be accessed by gondola.
Note that the one-way road is open for uphill traffic on even hours, and downhill traffic on odd hours. In the summer, particularly on weekends, you may have to pay a toll to drive up.
From the resort, you walk along a paved road to the east for about 5 minutes. From there, a clearly marked trail takes off to access the crag. The first routes are just a few minutes away, the furthest 20-25 minutes.
Weather station 6.1 miles from here
14 Total Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Bonistock / Melchsee-Frutt
Melkaeli 6c 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Europe
: ... : Bonistock / Melchsee-Frutt
One of Melchsee's (many) gems, and as a bonus for the lazy, is in the second sector, a very short approach. Unfortunately the upper crux section is often wet, so if you are there and it is dry and the grade suits you, it is an absolute "muss" Entertaining throughought, there is an interesting move on an obvious sidepull in the lower, vertical section, and a gorgous, overhanging upper section with a distinct crux pull just before it eases off into vertical terrain again....[more] Browse More Classics in International
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Aug 21, 2009
There is a toll for the road from Stöckalp, and it's 12 Franken. IMO, if you're going to Swizzyland for single pitch climbing, you're nuts!
By Dan Flynn
Jul 17, 2011
Toll is 7 chf to drive up and park at Melchsee-Frutt, but we couldn't find out how to pay it... camping is possible at several sites on the drive up.
Sure, don't come to Switzerland for the single-pitch climbing, but it sure is fun if you're already here!
Note the grades on the route name placards are UIAA/German, which takes some mental gymnastics...
By Colin Winter
Dec 7, 2011
Toll (in 2011, gets adjusted every year or two) is CHF 12, but this is only collected during the tourist season - if nobody is standing at the base or the top to collect, you've got nothing to worry about.