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 ADVANCED
Reed's Pinnacle Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
11c Toprope Arete TR 
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left T 
Beyond Lunacy T 
Beyond the Fringe T 
Bong's Away Center T 
Bongs Away, Left T 
Chingando T 
Deer Route, The T 
Dr. Fun Time T 
Dream Easy T 
Ejesta T 
Flatus T 
Independence Pinnacle, Center T 
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) T 
Iota, The T 
Lunatic Fringe T 
Olga's Trick T 
Phantom T 
Porter's Pout T 
Reed's Pinnacle Left T 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route T 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route T 
Remnant, Center, The T 
Remnant-Left Side, The T 
Remnant-Right Side, The T 
Scrunchy-Mungy T 
Steppin' Out T 
Stone Groove T 

Bongs Away, Left 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim Bridwell, 1970
Page Views: 1,675
Submitted By: Sirius on Dec 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: Telephoto view of "Bongs Away" area. Exfoliation s...

Description 

This pitch is a fun and somewhat physical option for those who reach the top of Reed's Direct p2 and still want more - but not quite as much as Reed's 3rd pitch offers.

Fire up steep double cracks at the back of a shallow 'chimney' to pull onto a sloping ledge. These cracks will alternately take knees, fists, armbars, and handstacks - the shallow chimney provides infinite no hands rests with the right body language. Before you turn right onto the sloping ledge, gaze at the continuation of the left crack: a hard looking and overhung offwidth.

From the sloping ledge follow the nice crack as it curves up to a roof, which is easily pulled on the featured granite that abounds here.

A great pitch if you're looking for relatively tame, well protected, and non-sustained semi-wide climbing.


Location 

From the long ledge at the top of Reed's Direct second pitch, walk right until the end of the ledge. Clip in to the anchor/rap station here and climb the twin wide-ish cracks that are in front of your nose.


Protection 

Up to the 3.5 or 4"



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By Mark P Thomas
From: Oakland
Feb 7, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

After climbing, make sure to TR Bong's Away, Center (5.10a). It is a great OW - clean, sustained, and very exposed. It starts thin and widens to hand stacks. It has some nice calf to knee jams too. Either downclimb the top of the 2nd pitch of the Regular Route to follow the line (a little dirty on the lower part), or swing over from the ledge to the start (it is much cleaner from here on up).

By Osprey
From: ...
Mar 24, 2012

This pitch is well protected and a good entry in to the wide world of OW.

By Nathan Scherneck
From: Portland, OR
Jun 7, 2012

Anyone know what the "hard looking and overhung offwidth" that arches out left is called and rated? Looks exciting.