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Reed's Pinnacle Area
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11c Toprope Arete 
Arch OW at Bongs Away Left 
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Bong's Away Center 
Bongs Away, Left 
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Dr. Fun Time 
Dream Easy 
Ejesta 
Flatus 
Independence Pinnacle, Center 
Independent Route (Independence Pinnacle left) 
Iota, The 
Lunatic Fringe 
Olga's Trick 
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Reed's Pinnacle Left 
Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route 
Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route 
Remnant, Center, The 
Remnant-Left Side, The 
Remnant-Right Side, The 
Scrunchy-Mungy 
Steppin' Out 
Stone Groove 

Bong's Away Center 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Barry Bates & Mark Klemens
Page Views: 122
Submitted By: Wylie on Apr 21, 2013
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Description 

A nice, clean, less than vertical splitter OW that gradually goes from 3" - 6". A great intro to Valley wide climbing and knee jamming. Use long slings, back clean, or don't place anything on the traverse. Crux is pure 5" crack, by the time it opens to 6" knobs appear and the business is over. I see it listed usually as 5.10a, but compared to other OW's I'd say it's 5.9.


Location 

Move right on the big ledge at the top of pitch 2 of "Reed's Direct" to the 2 bolt anchor below "Bong's Away Left". Traverse easy terrain right and down from the anchor then up the obvious OW. 2 bolt anchor at the top. Rappel back down to the big ledge.


Protection 

Single set from BD C4 #3 - #6 will get it done. Doubles of 4 and 5 if you like lots-o gear or don't want to walk your cams. I think the traverse takes between a BD .5 and #2? It's been awhile.



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