Bong Bong Firecracker 

When the guide says "large nuts helpful" they mean hand/fist size hexes. Rack accordingly.

For some of us big guys that tunnel aught to be avoided for some face moves..

Rap down from the horn at the top of the dutchman instead of walking off. A 60m will just barely make it.

Splitter hand crack, old school rating, consistent in difficulty.

3 #3 c4 and 3 #4 c4's

Maybe, but I led it years ago with only 2 #3's and 1 #4 and it didn't seem run out. But that was then...

I agree with Zoso. Three #4's definitely seems excessive for this route, two would do maybe if you like to sew things up. With one #4 and two #3's it didn't seem super runout.

This climb is true to its rating. I carried a standard assortment of eight Friends, three Hexentrics, and rack of nuts. I fired every one of the cams and deployed at least one Hex and one nut in persuit of the summit. A sustained crack with a variety of moves from perfect hands to wide, followed by a bonus section of caving at the top. Worth the hike!

Some history. The Wasatch Granite guide by Dave Smith (1977) book said you needed large nuts. This seemed to prevail to all the guidebooks, including the current one. Did they distinguish between hexes and stoppers in the mid to late 70's? Reading Dave's guidebook makes me believe they didn't. He clearly distinguished between bolts, "nuts" and pitons, but not hexes. Dough Robsinson never mention hexes in his infamous 1972 Chouinard Catalogue. I think that the "large nuts" pro recommendation just filtered through the guidebooks from year to year. I placed a medium stopper at the bottom (there is a fixed angle pin, but would you trust it?, the routes FA was in '64, who knows how old that thing is?) a .75 through 3 camolot throughout the climb, with the addition of the three largest hexes. A sweet old school route that needs to be done again and again!

If you are a climber of the era, I would like you to weigh in. What did you call a large nut back in the late 70s?

Seemed harder than 5.7 to me. Judging by other wideish 5.7 cracks like parts of tingeys, and hatchet crack, this felt harder. Felt harder than bushwhack (5.8) to me. Maybe my fat crack technique sucks.

Another beaut up here on the sail. This thing looks wide, and it is in a few sections, but the middle is nothing but slammer hand jams, though you kind of have to dig for them. I only placed 1 each of #2, #3 and #4 camalots but I felt really secure in that middle section so doubles in each wouldn't be unreasonable. Don't tunnel at the top, it will just ruin your shirt/back. Fun.

One of the best hand cracks in the Wasatch.

If this route had an easier approach it would be a really popular 5.7. Nice jams and great gear the whole way up