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This great sport climbing area is characterized by powerful pocket climbing on severely overhanging rock. The climbs are very fingery and bouldery and well bolted on volcanic Brecchia, very similar to Malibu Creek, with pockets of all shapes, sizes, and depths. The routes are short, between 30 and 50 feet long, steep, and relatively sustained. There are a staggering number of link-ups possible. Boney Bluff is one of the best "training" crags in Southern California.
From the Ventura Freeway (101) take Westlake Blvd for 7.2 miles until it's possible to turn right onto Mulholland Drive. After 0.4 miles turn right on Little Sycamore Canyon. Go 4.7 miles and park at the Backbone Trail/Sandstone Peak parking. Hike up the fire road to the Sandstone Peak summit. From here, follow the single-track trail straight ahead which is slightly faster then the fire road. Take a trail heading off left and parallel the creek for about 5 minutes until you pass a right-hand fork and an entrance sign for Point Mugu State Park. Shortly after the sign, you encounter another climber's trail leading up to the cliff.
9 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Boney Bluff
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Boney Bluff:
Funky Pump 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Joyride 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Sport, 35'
Europa 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Skinny White Boy 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Outrage 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Sureshot 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Bionic 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ E7 6c Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Lithium 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- E7 7a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Atmosphere 5.13d 8b 31 X E8 7a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Featured Route For Boney Bluff
Joyride 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c CA : Los Angeles County : ... : Boney Bluff
This route throws 5.11 moves off the ground using some shallow pockets to the first clip (which I felt was the crux, although the route is fairly sustained). From there more positive pockets will get you past the next 4 bolts to the anchors. The route is a little overhanging so throws a slight pump. Considered to be the "standard warm up" by Louie Anderson, I think its a good route regardless....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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