This great sport climbing area is characterized by powerful pocket climbing on severely overhanging rock. The climbs are very fingery and bouldery and well bolted on volcanic Brecchia, very similar to Malibu Creek, with pockets of all shapes, sizes, and depths. The routes are short, between 30 and 50 feet long, steep, and relatively sustained. There are a staggering number of link-ups possible. Boney Bluff is one of the best "training" crags in Southern California.
From the Ventura Freeway (101) take Westlake Blvd for 7.2 miles until it's possible to turn right onto Mulholland Drive. After 0.4 miles turn right on Little Sycamore Canyon. Go 4.7 miles and park at the Backbone Trail/Sandstone Peak parking. Hike up the fire road to the Sandstone Peak summit. From here, follow the single-track trail straight ahead which is slightly faster then the fire road. Take a trail heading off left and parallel the creek for about 5 minutes until you pass a right-hand fork and an entrance sign for Point Mugu State Park. Shortly after the sign, you encounter another climber's trail leading up to the cliff.
Browse More Classics in Boney Bluff
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Boney Bluff:
Funky Pump 5.11b Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet
Europa 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet
Skinny White Boy 5.12d Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet
Sureshot 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Outrage 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet
Bionic 5.13b Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet
Lithium 5.13c Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Atmosphere 5.13d Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Featured Route For Boney Bluff