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> Lower Buttress
Boneless Chicken Ranch
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 11
votes
Routes in Lower Buttress
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Boneless Chicken Ranch T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Continental Drift Whiplash T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Farther S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Farthing, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Lichen It T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Scorpio S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Seymour Frishberg T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Spellcaster S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Robin Madgewick and Ken Stanton |
| Page Views: | 1,990 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Quiter on Apr 11, 2002 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Continue on the path that led to The Far Side, past the rock with Step To The Left. About 40 feet later, there's a steeper path leading downhill. Follow this for ~100 feet to another large rock, Boneless Chicken Ranch is the first climb on the rock, with a very easy beginning, leading to a vertical face.
Once you get onto the vertical portion of the climb, it seems like one long crux. Lots of pocket fun.
Once you get onto the vertical portion of the climb, it seems like one long crux. Lots of pocket fun.
Protection
4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor shared by Seymour Frishberg. Not run out on the difficult portion. Avoid rope drag if you're top-roping.
BRING THOSE CAMS! I hadn't read this, and summit's bay area top-ropes doesn't mention it. The final moves were dirty, and I wasn't very pleased to find myself without any pro moving to the last bolt. You'll deck from the upper ledge on the final 5.9ish move getting to the last bolt, and this is a good 70' up.
BRING THOSE CAMS! I hadn't read this, and summit's bay area top-ropes doesn't mention it. The final moves were dirty, and I wasn't very pleased to find myself without any pro moving to the last bolt. You'll deck from the upper ledge on the final 5.9ish move getting to the last bolt, and this is a good 70' up.
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