Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
The Far Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) 
At Last 
Atlas Shrugged 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) 
Better Eat Your Wheaties 
Boneless Chicken Ranch 
Bushy Crack 
Cereal Killer 
Chief, The 
Curse of Madame C 
Death to the right 
Far Out 
Far Side Chimney 
Farthing, The 
Feelin' Your Oats 
Gorilla Finishing School 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face 
Initiation Rite 
Left Behind 
Lichen It 
Mystery Hole 
Near Side Chimney 
New Tradition 
Night of the Crash Test Dummies 
Old Spice 
Old Tradition 
Pile, The 
Planet of the Grapes 5.6 
Rite of Passage 
Saviour Heart 
Separation Anxiety 
Seymour Frishberg 
Shute-Mills Route 
Something Good 
Sport Roof Left 
Sport Roof Right 
Step To The Left 
Two-Bolt Slab 
War Party 
Unsorted Routes:

Boneless Chicken Ranch 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Robin Madgewick and Ken Stanton
Page Views: 656
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Apr 12, 2002
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]


Continue on the path that led to The Far Side, past the rock with Step To The Left. About 40 feet later, there's a steeper path leading downhill. Follow this for ~100 feet to another large rock, Boneless Chicken Ranch is the first climb on the rock, with a very easy beginning, leading to a vertical face.

Once you get onto the vertical portion of the climb, it seems like one long crux. Lots of pocket fun.


4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor shared by Swymour Frishberg. Not run out on the difficult portion. Avoid rope drag if you're top-roping.

Comments on Boneless Chicken Ranch Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dodrill
From: Sebastopol, CA
Jan 10, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Bring a few finger sized cams or nuts.

By Aron Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 3, 2011

Great route - BRING THOSE CAMS! I hadn't read this, and summit's bay area top-ropes doesn't mention it. The final moves were dirty, and I wasn't very pleased to find myself without any pro moving to the last bolt. You'll deck from the upper ledge on the final 5.9ish move getting to the last bolt, and this is a good 70' up.

By jimi thornburg
Sep 11, 2013

The first four bolts have been replaced with SS glue-ins.