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The Far Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
18NY (aka The Chickens are Breastless) T,S 
At Last S 
Atlas S 
Atlas Shrugged S 
Baby Atlas (aka The Chickens are Restless) S 
Better Eat Your Wheaties T,S 
Boneless Chicken Ranch S 
Bushy Crack T 
Cereal Killer S 
Chief, The S,TR 
Continental Drift Whiplash T 
Curse of Madame C S 
Death to the right T,S 
Far S 
Far Out S 
Far Side Chimney T 
Farther S 
Farthing, The T 
Feelin' Your Oats T,S 
Gorilla Finishing School S 
Hummingbird Spire, N. Face T 
Initiation Rite T 
Jardinero S 
Koka T 
Kola S 
Left Behind T 
Lichen It T 
Mystery Hole S,TR 
Near Side Chimney T 
New Tradition S,TR 
Night of the Crash Test Dummies S 
Old Spice T 
Old Tradition T 
Pile, The T 
Planet of the Grapes 5.6 T 
Rite of Passage T 
Saviour Heart T,S 
Scorpion's Chair S 
Separation Anxiety S,TR 
Seymour Frishberg S 
Shute-Mills Route S 
Something Good S,TR 
Spellcaster S 
Sport Roof Left S 
Sport Roof Right S 
Step To The Left T,S 
Synchronicity S 
Tradfest T 
Two-Bolt Slab T,S 
War Party S,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Boneless Chicken Ranch 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Robin Madgewick and Ken Stanton
Page Views: 726
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Apr 12, 2002

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Continue on the path that led to The Far Side, past the rock with Step To The Left. About 40 feet later, there's a steeper path leading downhill. Follow this for ~100 feet to another large rock, Boneless Chicken Ranch is the first climb on the rock, with a very easy beginning, leading to a vertical face.

Once you get onto the vertical portion of the climb, it seems like one long crux. Lots of pocket fun.


4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor shared by Swymour Frishberg. Not run out on the difficult portion. Avoid rope drag if you're top-roping.

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By Dodrill
From: Sebastopol, CA
Jan 10, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Bring a few finger sized cams or nuts.

By Aron Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 3, 2011

Great route - BRING THOSE CAMS! I hadn't read this, and summit's bay area top-ropes doesn't mention it. The final moves were dirty, and I wasn't very pleased to find myself without any pro moving to the last bolt. You'll deck from the upper ledge on the final 5.9ish move getting to the last bolt, and this is a good 70' up.

By jimi thornburg
Sep 11, 2013

The first four bolts have been replaced with SS glue-ins.