Striking pillar with finger crack. Overhanging the whole way.
10 yards right of Gold fist. Obvious steep pillar jutting out with anchors.
TCU's. Closed Shut Anchors.
|By P. Sully|
Dec 4, 2012
FA: Paul Sullivan - Sept. 1994
Thin gear at bottom till you can sink a good TCU. I remember using a red Lowe Ball. Then good mid-sized cams through the middle of the thuggy route. Finish using the face just left of the fingercrack; while placing gear and using handholds in small fingercrack on right.
You can up the grade by using only the fingercrack and not touching the slabby face on left of shuts.
Originally graded 10+; last time I led the route it felt more like 11b.
|By Sam Stephens|
Mar 18, 2013
Fun climb, next time I'm in Blacksburg I really need to get back to Bozoo.