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Bone Machine 
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Bone Machine 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
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Submitted By: Jonathan Spencer on Nov 29, 2012
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Bone Machine
Private Property - Access Sensitive MORE INFO >>>


Striking pillar with finger crack. Overhanging the whole way.


10 yards right of Gold fist. Obvious steep pillar jutting out with anchors.


TCU's. Closed Shut Anchors.

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By P. Sully
Dec 4, 2012

FA: Paul Sullivan - Sept. 1994

Thin gear at bottom till you can sink a good TCU. I remember using a red Lowe Ball. Then good mid-sized cams through the middle of the thuggy route. Finish using the face just left of the fingercrack; while placing gear and using handholds in small fingercrack on right.

You can up the grade by using only the fingercrack and not touching the slabby face on left of shuts.

Originally graded 10+; last time I led the route it felt more like 11b.

By Sam Stephens
Mar 18, 2013

Fun climb, next time I'm in Blacksburg I really need to get back to Bozoo.