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This stunning hand crack splits the middle of London Wall. A pure, aesthetic classic and a fine test of jamming ability. The crack starts as wide fists and, after 30 feet of beautiful hand and fist jams, narrows to fingers near the crux, which involves a move into a niche. Climbing above the niche is substantially easier but less straightforward. The pitch 1 belay is on a good ledge with poor gear on top of the crack. Pitch 2 is a dirty scramble off to the right (still has technical moves; stay roped up).
A great climb; certainly one of the best at Millstone.
Right of Embankment Wall. Splitter hand crack right in the middle of the face.
Takes whatever you'll give it. From a 3.5 camalot down to small wires, protection is good throughout. Except at the belay.
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|By Rob Davies UK|
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 23, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Straightforward hand-jamming with the hardest move getting into the niche after the crack closes down. Low end HVS 5a in UK terms - Indian Creek 5.7?