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 ADVANCED
London Wall Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bond Street T 
Great Portland Steet T 
London Wall T 
Mall, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Bond Street 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 433
Submitted By: rdlennon on Dec 13, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Bond Street

Description 

This stunning hand crack splits the middle of London Wall. A pure, aesthetic classic and a fine test of jamming ability. The crack starts as wide fists and, after 30 feet of beautiful hand and fist jams, narrows to fingers near the crux, which involves a move into a niche. Climbing above the niche is substantially easier but less straightforward. The pitch 1 belay is on a good ledge with poor gear on top of the crack. Pitch 2 is a dirty scramble off to the right (still has technical moves; stay roped up).

A great climb; certainly one of the best at Millstone.

Location 

Right of Embankment Wall. Splitter hand crack right in the middle of the face.

Protection 

Takes whatever you'll give it. From a 3.5 camalot down to small wires, protection is good throughout. Except at the belay.


Photos of Bond Street Slideshow Add Photo
Upper part of Bond Street. The crux is getting into the niche. Belay at the clump of bushes.
BETA PHOTO: Upper part of Bond Street. The crux is getting int...
Sergei on the classic Bond Street, May, 2006. Photo by Terry Relphs, IFMGA
Sergei on the classic Bond Street, May, 2006. Phot...

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By Rob Davies UK
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 23, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Straightforward hand-jamming with the hardest move getting into the niche after the crack closes down. Low end HVS 5a in UK terms - Indian Creek 5.7?