|R Crags (Two Finger Canyon)
|Type: ||Trad, 5 pitches, 900', Grade II|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Andy Ross. Paul Ross. Shingo Ohkawa.(Var Leads). March 12 2013|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||604|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Mar 19, 2013|
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A classic climb for the Reef, where the rock over all was very good. Although it appears as a traverse the climbing does not feel that way.
Paul's last first ascent in the US before he returned to the UK.
P1)Climb 20 feet then step left into a groove(small/med cams). Up this to a small tree then straight up passing three bolts to bolt belay. 180'5.6 (This anchor is the belay of the climb Afternoon Tea 5.7R that starts left of Bon Voyage)
P2) Move out left and head for some black rock passing a bolt, then tricky moves(#2 or 3 Wallnut/Rock helpfull)get you to the bolt belay for the climb PG Tips. Carry on past this anchor for another 50ft to a higher bolt anchor. 180'5.7
P3)Continue climbing left past three bolts to double anchors on top of large block. 160'5.7
P4)Continue up and then move left past first bolt. Then straight up past bolt to ledge. Clip another bolt to protect your second then walk along ledge to double anchors.170'5.8
P5)Some steeper climbing with a short section of not so great rock but well protected by 3 bolts lead to a one bolt and horn belay. 200'+ 5.7
Second will need to move up 15ft of easy ground for to reach belay.
Descent:-Scramble up and along the ledge for about 150' to an open area above the ridge. Here is double rap anchors (115')to the gully that leads back to the bottom of the canyon. Can also be done with a 70m rope. Watch the ends, its close.
Register just above the rap anchors.
Walk to the far end of Two Fingers. The climb starts on the right about 50ft past the No Faith/Reef Sport Climb Slab.
It follows an obvious brown/white streak about 25ft below where the slab junctions with the vertical wall. The first anchor is visable from the ground.
Cams 1/2" to 3"set of stoppers. Two 60m ropes or a 70m rope.
Andy starting the first pitch
View from the top of the climb with the Henry Mts ...
Andy higher on P1
Dawn the morning after
On the belay of P4
Shingo on P2
The Route looking up from the canyon bottom.
Higher on P2
BETA PHOTO: Back to Borrowdale
Andy following P2
Andy topping out on P2
Shingo starting P5
Paul starting P3
BETA PHOTO: The Route .Looking across from the descent ridge
Paul Higher on P3
The night after ... Here we go again!
Andy following P3
Breakfast with the Eastern Reef locals. Marea, Lan...
P3 ..The real Sandstone Alps
Scott Carson & John Bald on Pitch 4.
|By Perin Blanchard|
From: Orem, UT
Mar 19, 2013
Paul, I'm sad to see you go.
Mar 20, 2013
Thanks Perin ...Its been a great experience ...The desert has been a superb place to explore....wish I had done it when I was a wee bit younger.. now its back to the damp but beatiful Lake District and old friends....
|By Andrew Gram|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 20, 2013
Best wishes Paul. I've had some great adventures climbing your routes.
Mar 21, 2013
Thanks Andrew...Maybe UK one day ?
Mar 22, 2013
bon voyage pr! may the internet be strong in the UK.
i mean, who else will call people out for their lack of
adventure and chest pounding sport skills? ~thanks
Mar 22, 2013
Thanks grk . Pulling up on one finger a couple of feet above a bolt is nothing compared with the risks involved in a true climbing adventure... rock or alpine... An experience that is about life itself..two sports that are now many many miles apart.I guess to each his own...
|By Mike Kinney|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 26, 2013
Thanks Paul for all the fine lines you’ve established at the Swell. One of my favorite places for a magnificent wilderness experience…gotta love those runout slabs!!!!
Mar 29, 2013
Paul, you are an inspiration to so many of us. Thanks for all your hard work!
Apr 4, 2013
Well I am now back in the UK..Thanks chaps for your nice comments. I really loved the desert and hope you all have a great time exploring its wonders. You are very lucky to have so much adventure just there for the taking... do not take it for granted.. it is far more rewarding than clipping bolts on sport routes or jumping on mattresses..as usual just winding you up.. or am I? ... All the Best... Paul