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Melting Wall
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Bon Soir S 
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Smoking Room, The S 

Bon Soir 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: S. Lightner, G. Collum, Jan 1996
Page Views: 149
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 29, 2006

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A good route, but not very long. While the Schmitz/Changrua book refers to this line as tricky, I did not experience any moment of trickery. I did however, get quite pumped. Perhaps the trick lies in not getting pumped?
Climb up the face just right of the tunnel on the trail and then move left under a bulge to climb up and left toward a good stalactite on the left. The crux is a hard section with less positive holds up high after you get pumped.

Location 

As you reach the Melting Wall via through the arch from Fire Wall, turn around and look on it's right side. The bolted line starting just to it's right and finishing above the path is Bonsoir.

Protection 

4 bolts to a bolted anchor.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Oct 31, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

For once I agree w/ Wee and Elke... I thought this route was more "tricky" than pumpy. It is quite sustained though, at least for the first 40 feet. I thought the crux involved getting the sequence right.