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North Side
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Bombelay T 
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Bombelay 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bruce Burgess, Andy Kluge - 1999
Season: All
Page Views: 1,990
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Aug 18, 2009

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Description 

This is a great granite slab route with multiple, interesting cruxes. The route links discontinuous features, so requires some good route finding skills if there is no chalk. Begin with liebacking up some flakes to the first bolt and the first crux; pulling over a short roof (harder for short folks...you can place a TCU up high in the corner to the left before you pull the roof). Next do some powerful liebacks up to the next bolt (crux 2), place a tcu or nut then use jugs to mantel up onto a large flake below the slab. Chalk up for about 20 minutes while you psyche up, then crank some seriously thin crimpers to the left, gunning for a series of rails that lead to the next bolt (crux 3). You'll have to stand on your feet. Once you reach the 2nd bolt on the slab, you're home free. A couple good rests can be had off to the right in some loose blocks. A single 60m rope will get you down. The start is mossy and needs a wire brush badly. The upper half of the route is much cleaner.

Location 

On the North Face of Looking Glass. After arriving at the wall, walk to the right about 100 feet until the forest joins up with the wall again. There is a group of four single-pitch routes in this area. Bombelay is the 3rd route from the left and starts about 5' left of the South Carolina-shaped flake that is about as big as a car's hood. Starting just to the right of the flake is "Witney's Excellent Route".

Protection 

Several bolts, but also bring small nuts and/or a set of TCU's. Two #.5 and #2 camalots would also be nice near the start.


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