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Bombay Bitch 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Monica Buhler, 4/13
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 179
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Apr 16, 2013

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Drilling the anchor atop Slinging the Blues with t...

Description 

This is a wild pitch that chimneys across a hudge bombay roof for about 70' and ends at a 2 bolt anchor. I rated it 10b because a rating was required to post a new route. This is the first time I have climbed anything like this. It may feel easy to you. There were 2 short wet sections when I did it that were the crux, very slick and not so nice. (Don't climb this pitch when wet).

To get to the route you climb Handle With Care a very fun bolted 10c face route then Slinging the Blues a 5.9 right facing corner. Also while your there don't forget to climb Eye of the Liger a steep 10a splitter that starts off the same ledge as Slinging the Blues.


Location 

Walking between the Cockshead and Haley Anna it's hard to miss the gaping maw of the Bombay Bitch looming above. A right facing corner leads to the obvious Bombay roof. The corner is Slinging the blues a 8+/5.9 #3 camalot size crack. To get to Slinging the Blues and Eye of the Liger it is most enjoyable to climb Handle with care a fun 5.10c mostly face pitch. Handle with care starts in a shady area several 100, before reaching Hayley Anna. After passing the Cockshead and before entering the shady treed area, look for a few bolts on a golden face. After the last bolt you make a trverse to the right to get to the cool perch of Slinging the Blues.


Protection 

I used (1)3.5&4 (2)3s,5s,&6s (3)2 (Camalots)

There is a 2 bolt anchor out at the end of the bombay

  • ** Don't forget the knee pads and long sleave shirt ***



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By Alexey
From: San Jose
Apr 16, 2013

Nice job Jeff!,
it looks attractive based on your description.
How to find the base of "Handle With Care" and than " Slinging the Blues " to get to the Bitch?
Any photos you can post?
thanks

By Jeff Scheuerell
Apr 16, 2013

Alexey, it is easy to find and you would love all three pitches. Also you would love Eye of the Liger. Do Tweet This on the Cockshead on the way over. To get there hike like your going to Hayley Anna. A bit before you get to Hayley Anna you walk through a cool shady treed area, about midway through look for a few flat rocks stacked below the climb in the trees. I think this route is your cup of tea but it is unpleaseant and hard when even a little wet.

By Jeff Scheuerell
Apr 16, 2013

I forgot to mention that you could easily link Slinging the Blues with the Bitch. Would be very cool. The problem is all the gear. It is nice to have at least 2 3s and a 3.5 for Slinging the Blues. You could skip the 3.5 but then you would want another 3. You also need a couple of 3s for the Bitch and a 3.5 fits perfect at the start. Not a big deal until you add that to the 2 5s and 6s. Nothing smaller than the 3 2s in the Bitch.