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 ADVANCED
Lower Left Wall / Ventilator Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Age Before Beauty T 
Bombardment T 
Effects of Kind Bud on an Abnormal Brain, The T 
Ego Trip T,S 
Fisting Jon (AKA Leafspring) T 
Fun House T 
Fun House Left T 
Happy Trails T 
King Crab (Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge) T 
Once Upon A Climb T 
One Hit To The Body T 
Pleasant St. T 
Pooh T 
Son Of A Birch T 
Starfire (Yo-Yo) T 
Three Birches T 
Ventilated Western Girl T,S 
Ventilator T 
Western Lady/ California Girls T 
Unsorted Routes:

Bombardment 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dave Cilley, rope-solo on October 6, 1972
Page Views: 6,963
Submitted By: jeremyadams on Jan 1, 2007

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Alex working up the nice curving crack...

Description 

Bombardment shares p1 with Pleasant Street, a quick test of wits on a wandering, run-out 5.6 slab that terminates at a large ant-eaten oak on a slanting ledge below an overlap. Start p2 by stepping up and right over the overlap. The p2 crack climbing is an easily protected and fun place to learn jams and ween yourself off of the plentiful face features for footholds.


Location 

Starts at the far left end of the lower left slabs, at a short headwall. From atop the first ledge, step right, protect, and follow the white dike to the right side of the ramp. From the top of the route, move north (right) about 40 feet to rap anchors, continue to top on any number of routes, or walk left along base of cliff until you can round the corner into the woods and to the top (about 10 minutes to walk off).


Protection 

P1 is considered R/X, but can be protected reasonably with double ropes. P2 protects very well with nuts and small-to-medium cams.



Photos of Bombardment Slideshow Add Photo
The second pitch crack. A must do.
BETA PHOTO: The second pitch crack. A must do.
Mike climbing the second pitch.
Mike climbing the second pitch.
You can see how deep the hands sink in to the crack
You can see how deep the hands sink in to the crac...
Me on Bombardment <br />Photo by Edge
Me on Bombardment
Photo by Edge
Me on lower slab and Uncle G on the awesome hand crack...
Me on lower slab and Uncle G on the awesome hand c...
The first pitch slab.
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch slab.
Adam Winters and Bombardment on a beautiful June day.
Adam Winters and Bombardment on a beautiful June d...
alex reaching at the crux...
alex reaching at the crux...
Me finishing up <br />Photo by Edge
Me finishing up
Photo by Edge
Comments on Bombardment Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 28, 2014
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Feb 21, 2007

This climb can be done in one pitch quite easily with a 60m.

By Zigs
Dec 1, 2008

Due to my own stupidity I ended up having to leap frog my last two cam placements for the last 30 or so feet of the crack on pitch two. This is my way of suggesting that people bring two number 1, and 2 Camalots. Bolder climbers than me will probably say that it's not necessary but I like my gear. The jams are great though so reusing pieces or running it out are both valid options.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 2, 2008

i would recomend conserving gear rather than bringing extras, like i know there is a good .75 cam spot and some good large nuts... but do as you wish and have fun...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 28, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

How ever you do this route, it is awesome, I climbed it with Jim Shim and it was my first Conway experience, what a great first route in Conway...

By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Feb 12, 2009

Almost bought the farm free-soloing this thing years ago with a buddy.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Feb 12, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Adam i know the feeling i scared myself on a 5.3 the one and only solo i will ever do...

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 12, 2009

thanks for sharing the story... there are so many stories like that out there and so few climbers die from it... Maybe that says something about survival instincts... im glad you lived...

By Christopher Gagne
From: Dover
Aug 31, 2009

Does anyone know the grade and name of the three bolt slab climb that can be find going up to the 2nd pitch of Bombardment & Pleasant St?
I know to the right is the normal 5.6 start to each of those climbs just wondering what the other is...

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 31, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

It's a newer George Hurley line, I don't know anybody who's done it yet. It seems kinda random, but hey, the man knows his routes.

By Christopher Gagne
From: Dover
Sep 1, 2009

Thanks...

It is a little Random and from what I've heard from another climbing friend of mine it's meant to be a more fitting start to Ventilator... I made the first bolt and the first moves up to the second bolt with ease after that I had to aid the route up to the crack below the oak tree...

Something I'll try again on a cooler day then the day I tried it...

By patrick donahue
From: Gunnison, Colorado
Apr 23, 2010

ya ive done this climb in one pitch and as you know it went a lot faster but still a great climb.

By Barrett Stetson
Aug 21, 2011

P1 was kind of sketchy (even w/doubles I think you are looking at potential groundfall?) and likely wouldn't do it again. Last few steps before exiting the runout slab seemed pretty thin. P2 was super fun, I only wish I had saved a .75 or 1 camalot for the top of the crack, ended up down climbing ~15ft to get the .75 so I'd have something good for what seemed like the crux to me. Also curious about the rating of the bolted route because I loved P2 but don't think I'd do P1 again.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 21, 2011

the run out moves shouldnt be too bad if you move right far enough... the dike you follow has decent feet though ill give it to you that its a bit of a head game... many people dont go far enough right and end up on pure slab at a harder grade (yikes)...

as for the bolted line its like 10a slab, not too bad and you could probably cheat through it to get to the money pitch if you wanted...

By Barrett Stetson
Aug 22, 2011

Thanks for the info Lee, that might be a better option for me to cheat through ;). I was on the dike, it was just the top that felt a tad thinner (could have been mental feeling like there was potential groundfall). I'm also 5'6", so maybe some get the jug to exit the slab a step earlier.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 22, 2011

right on... glad you were in the right place... pretty sure its a mental thing but thats just as real as any kind of difficulty... i dont use my generous height to get to the finish ;)

By JChepes
From: Chocorua, NH
Jul 6, 2012

The Hurley line, Age before Beauty, goes at 5.9(Handren's new guide) and is a quite a pleasant(safer) start to approaching bombardment.

By Barrett Stetson
Sep 4, 2012

Went back to try Age Before Beauty and couldn't quite get myself to trust my feet, but was able to cheat through it hauling on draws without too much trouble, so it is cheat-able. Worth it still, love that second pitch.

By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Apr 28, 2014

This is just a wonderful pitch. Great rock, great gear, great jams, a nice little face-move crux---wish it went on forever.