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Bolts next to cracks in the Wasatch
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By Duncan
From Salt Lake City
Oct 5, 2006
Radiation Babies, Hellgate, Taken by Greg Martinez...
Troy,

When aiding make sure you place your gear correctly, I didn't and on The Nose, fell 30' and broke my wrist last week. So don't be like me, and who brings a messuring tape to a climb?

Wait is any of what I just said relevant?

Hey Tea, I agree with you, Gary always writes some cool stuff, post on Gary, love to hear those stories about the history of this awesome area.

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By Jason Thomas
Oct 6, 2006
my dog defending my proj
Tony Calderone wrote:
Why not Stiffler's? I've heard people complaining about those bolts ever since they went in.
Really? Sounds like to me you were in iraq "helping the iraqi people" at the time. Were your "friends" keeping you up to date on new routes in the wasatch during your time "liberating the iraqi people"?also "I like Quotes"

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By bsmoot
Oct 6, 2006
Me in the 70's
About Reservoir Ridge, Tony Said:

"Someone could place some crack protection there that would be sufficient for the class' requirements. But it could take a little more time, knowledge & equipment."

This doesn't quite work for the U of U. Students would take as much as 30 falls on the bolts. Natural pro here would get quite shock loaded and stuck doing this. Sometimes kids would launch off, jumping strait back. This outward force could run the risk of pulling out the natural gear. Remember the University has liability issues. Back when I taught, the bolts didn't have any chains. Fun class.

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By Michael Larue
From salt lake city, ut
Oct 6, 2006
Why are you guys giving Tony a hard time?

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By Duncan
From Salt Lake City
Oct 6, 2006
Radiation Babies, Hellgate, Taken by Greg Martinez...
Michael, if you don't already know then you have a lot of catching up to do.

As for removing these anchors, bsmoot is 100% right. And a class like that or even not a class just 2 people, one a newbie, should perform this operation under the safest possible conditions. Why is this even being debated. They have been there (maybe not with chains) for how long? Decades? Why is it a bother now. Leave them alone!

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By tenesmus
Oct 6, 2006
Michael Larue wrote:
Why are you guys giving Tony a hard time?
because he can't let anything go and he'll almost always come back with a caustic response.

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By Gary Olsen
Oct 6, 2006
Michael Larue wrote:
Why are you guys giving Tony a hard time?

I will answer with a multiple choice question:

a. Because he e-mailed me a few times asking for a response to something.

b. Because he wants to liberate the Wasatch Rock that is held in bondage by bolts.

c. He is unconcerned with widely held climbers beliefs about FA's and thinks his bolts are better.

d. All of the above.

e. None of the above.

Those who have read through the pages here know what the correct answer is.

Edit: tenesmus beat me to it.

Edit2: When responding to Mr. Calderone it is wise to "quote" him as his posts change over time. I am pretty well convinced that Tony bugged he hell out of Tyler

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By Craig Childre
From Lubbock, Texas
Oct 6, 2006
Potrero Mexico, Sport Climbing Mecca.
As to the low chains with natural pro just off the deck-
I agree with that it is a pretty nice setup. One could teach in a realatively safe enviroment, offering several chances to train.

Building an anchor and how a fall could affect it, while backing it up with a fixed anchor.

Demonstrate how a fall can cause the failure of a single piece of gear.

How to thread the chains and tie back in safely when your cleaning a route.

My green days of trad, the first few anchors I built were mega bombproof, or included a bolt as backup. Really gave me a better sense of how the different pressure changed and its effects without as much risk were I to do something wrong.

Giving Tony a hard time! WTF - Is this RC.com? I haven't spent a lot of time here just yet, but some of you guys seem to be keeping things alive, of which he is included. While I have to say, I got a real kick when J.C. logged in and posted up, and the Devil too, but then it became like beating a dead horse. Isn't there a hate Tony thread out there?

I just hope we can stay on topic here.

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By Tea
Oct 6, 2006
just Jong it!
yes....use the quote button and hurry! the posts do seem to change pretty quickly around here.

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By James Garrett
Oct 6, 2006
Hollow Point in the middle of the photo. Route cli...
I heard the story from Tyler how he met the legendary Gary Olsen and Stu Ruckman up at the Hellgate. He related how he kind of wondered if you were gumbies being up there without helmets! Then he said you introduced yourselves and then he felt like he put his foot in his mouth!
I ditto Gary in regards to Tony, I hope he just leaves me and mine alone and doesn't write me anymore. I don't think I'd have much fun if we went climbing together.

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By Gary Olsen
Oct 6, 2006
James Garrett wrote:
I heard the story from Tyler how he met the legendary Gary Olsen and Stu Ruckman up at the Hellgate. He related how he kind of wondered if you were gumbies being up there without helmets! Then he said you introduced yourselves and then he felt like he put his foot in his mouth! I ditto Gary in regards to Tony, I hope he just leaves me and mine alone and doesn't write me anymore. I don't think I'd have much fun if went climbing together.


James, I may be a legend in my own mind, but Stu is still as down home as anyone. Tyler gave us old guys a friendly reminder in a nice way. Something Stu and I should have known. OTOH, I got lost with Stu approaching something at the Gate, so perhaps its a guide book author thing. :)

I am not out to attack Tony, nor bash him. What set me off is getting emails from him demanding a response and his stifflers play by play bolts near cracks measured to the inch. While many want the horse to die already, it clearly is not done for Tony. I hope he can come to grips with his issues about that route and continue contributing to climbing in a positive way.

I apologize for contributing to the drama. I am going climbing. Thrash my way up some Washington Choss this weekend.

Gary

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By Michael Larue
From salt lake city, ut
Oct 9, 2006
Perhaps I missed something.
Has Tony publicly complained about a route?
If so what did he complain about?

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By Michael Larue
From salt lake city, ut
Oct 9, 2006
tenesmus wrote:
because he can't let anything go and he'll almost always come back with a caustic response.
I haven't seen any "caustic responses" from him. He actually appears to be quite the gentleman. I've seen quite a few from you, though.

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By Michael Larue
From salt lake city, ut
Oct 9, 2006
Gary Olsen wrote:
Because he e-mailed me a few times asking for a response to something.
How many questions have you asked him? Has he answered your questions? Have you answered his questions? How many times did he e-mail you asking for your answer?
Gary Olsen wrote:
Because he wants to liberate the Wasatch Rock that is held in bondage by bolts.
I don't see that. Why do you?
Gary Olsen wrote:
He is unconcerned with widely held climbers beliefs about FA's and thinks his bolts are better.
I don't see that. Why do you?
Gary Olsen wrote:
I am pretty well convinced that Tony bugged he hell out of Tyler
I'm pretty well convinced of a few things myself: there are very few people accusing Tony of doing anything wrong. They rarely cite anything he did. They mostly attack his personality. Their accusations are based on speculation. They provide no evidence. They are masquerading as many more people (see what the administrators have had to keep doing on here).

The whole group of them speculate, troll, flame, personally attack, create nasty forums, etc. They obviously have something personal against the guy that has nothing to do with bolts and/or are dealing with their own demons. They are curiously defensive. It is as if they feel like they are guilty of something.

Tony, on the other hand, rarely gives his opinion about anything, states it as an opinion when he does, NEVER personally attacks anyone, ignores inflammatory/abusive remarks. Why don't they just ignore him if they don't like what he has to say? That's what Tyler should have done.

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By tim f
From Albuquerque, NM
Oct 9, 2006
Me and the boys
Michael Larue = Tony Calderone?

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By Boissal
From Small Lake, UT
Oct 9, 2006
tim f wrote:
Michael Larue = Tony Calderone?

Damn I was typing the exact same thing...

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By tim f
From Albuquerque, NM
Oct 9, 2006
Me and the boys
Mr. Larue even edits his posts in much the same way Mr. Calderone does!

Michael Larue wrote:
That's what Tyler should have done.


Uh, hasn't Tyler been ignoring this whole mess for some time now?

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By Michael Larue
From salt lake city, ut
Oct 9, 2006
tim f wrote:
Mr. Larue even edits his posts in much the same way Mr. Calderone does! Uh, hasn't Tyler been ignoring this whole mess for some time now?
We wouldn't even be talking about this if Tyler had ignored him. And there is no proof Tyler has ignored it since. Most of the people attacking Tony don't have real names.

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By Michael Larue
From salt lake city, ut
Oct 9, 2006
We wouldn't be talking about this if people stopped attacking Tony either.

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By Michael Larue
From salt lake city, ut
Oct 9, 2006
tim f wrote:
Mr. Larue even edits his posts in much the same way Mr. Calderone does! Uh, hasn't Tyler been ignoring this whole mess for some time now?
ha ha
so what?
Carrie Roberts = Tony Calderone
Bobby Hanson = Tony Calderone

See... I can accuse people based on speculation, too.
Just like you and... hmmm?... The Stiffler's Gang.

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By tim f
From Albuquerque, NM
Oct 9, 2006
Me and the boys
Michael Larue wrote:
... and there is no proof Tyler has ignored it since.


Speculation? Aren't you insinuating that Tyler has not ignored "it" - isn't that speculation? Can you say hypocrisy?

Why don't you comment on climbing?

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By Michael Larue
From salt lake city, ut
Oct 9, 2006
Duncan wrote:
Michael, if you don't already know then you have a lot of catching up to do.
Sorry. I read all the forums & posts. I just still don't understand what you have against him.

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By Michael Larue
From salt lake city, ut
Oct 9, 2006
tim f wrote:
Speculation? Aren't you insinuating that Tyler has not ignored "it" - isn't that speculation? Can you say hypocrisy? Why don't you comment on climbing?

No
I'm not insinuating/speculating/assuming Tyler has not ignored it.
I'm not insinuating/speculating/assuming he has ignored it.
I'm saying there is no way of knowing what is true on the internet.
I'm not insinuating or speculating. You are.
Looks like Tim f edits his posts, too. Therefore he must be hiding something (jk). I'm mostly trying to hide my bad spelling before Tony catches it. LOL

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By tim f
From Albuquerque, NM
Oct 9, 2006
Me and the boys
Michael Larue wrote:
I'm not insinuating/speculating/assuming Tyler has not ignored it. I'm not insinuating/speculating/assuming he has ignored it. There is no way of knowing either is true on the internet. I'm not speculating. You are.


I never speculated, I was just asking questions (notice the question marks). But now you are the one speculating/assuming that I was speculating/assuming, thus you are a speculator/assumer.

This could go on and on. But whatever, I'm going climbing.

FLAG
 
By Jimn Seiler
From North Platte, NE
Oct 9, 2006
Disco Superfly
What a joke.

Seriously.

I would go climbing but I'm injured, I can't wait until I am not.

FLAG


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