bolts chopped maliciously

Here we go again some may say...but no this is taking the bolt war to a whole new level. They chopped bolts, the new ones, but left the pre historic rusty coffin plates. The place is Goat Rock at Castle Rock state park. They also left two stations within 20 ft from each other on the same route that they chopped. I ask you why? Who did those bolts bother so much?

"Here we go again some may say...but no this is taking the bolt war to a whole new level. They chopped bolts, the new ones, but left the pre historic rusty coffin plates."

The official bolt war severity level has been upgraded to Level 4. This is the first time, like ever, we have seen something like this. We need to do something, like maybe hire someone to replace those bolts. Then, we need to hire someone to make sure those bolts stay in place. We can't hire climbers though, they smoke too much pot. Lets hire pack mules!

Go chip a few holds off some of the classics, that seems to work better at pissing people off than chopping bolts.

How many of the locals did you talk to before you posted this? What did they say about it?

Edit: I think I know the answers to my questions already.

The climb is Great roof. One of the locals ( a 5 12 climber) said " no one leads there anyway" . But I would lead that climb 5.10. But who cares unless you climb 5.12 right?

The left over bolts are seriously unsafe.

That climb is kinda scary even on top rope , with that swing out over the abyss if you come off.

I don't know what new bolts you're talking about being chopped ... I think the old ones get left up there because no one really seriously considers leading it anymore...

Would make a sweet sport lead. Heel hook on the left then jugs over the lip! Get on drilling!

Chip a few of those nice holds off and it will be good to go.

I can pound a piton or two just before the roof too. Next time I'm there. Up to the roof it's a 5.9 at best, can be done on gear up to the roof move. BtW roofs are done easier on lead than on tr. So that you know.

Last time my bolts got chopped I found out who did it, kidnapped his pet hamster and wrote "DIE" on the hood of the guy's car with my feces. Had no problems after. Take action!

...just sayin' :)

The bolts were most likely chopped by the state park rangers. Placing new bolts in Castle Rock was banned by the State and anyone wishing to replace bolts or anchors must contact the state and apply for a permit to do so.

Keep this in mind whenever climbing anywhere on Skyline blvd. For instance, no new bolts or anchors can be placed at Aquarian Valley and the county has removed bolts from climbs there too.

What this means is anchors and bolts in this area can be very suspect. (but some are still bomber years after placement) Always check them out first and back them up when possible.

powderfinger wrote:Placing new bolts in Castle Rock was banned by the State and anyone wishing to replace bolts or anchors must contact the state and apply for a permit to do so.

Funny how there is never a thread labeled "bolts drilled maliciously".

The Castle Rock State Park website says to contact the park(call or e-mail?) if you would like to replace bolts. My guess is you will probably not get much or any response as the rangers are not too fond of climbers or anything that has potential to damage their precious tafoni formations.

Healyje wrote:Funny how there is never a thread labeled "bolts drilled maliciously".

MJMobes wrote: Hmmm, evolution? Is the earth flat or round Joseph?

Healyje wrote: When the world [collectively] becomes so risk averse that people are unwilling sail beyond sight of land it really becomes a mute question.

MJMobes wrote: Ahh yes, Ken Nichols syndrome we call it here. Tough old school guys, real ballers.

Healyje wrote: Yeah, as opposed to the mallrats who would bolt everything in sight - definitely. Ken for sure has a lot of issues - communication, behavioral, impulse control, etc. - but a lack of balls was never one of them.